Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think its just the rev limiter cause it just sorta doesn't really go or change gear for a little while after it happens and it doesn't always happen just sometimes. My speed sensor on my gearbox is a bit dodgey i think so may be a bit of a problem with that. Ill make sure its rev limiters tnite when i drive it again

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine was just a single 1 piece dump/front pipe with a 3 inch catco cat and 80mm cat back with 2 mufflers.

The wastegate couldn't be leaking after getting a knock in the post could it?

good point, i should pay more attention.

When you run less boost does it come on boost earlier? I'm just thinking about the stock rubber intake pipe sucking closed. Also, what sort of filter are you running?

i dono have not tried it will give it a shot later,although i don't want to loose the boost setting atm as can be a bit of amission to get it set back right. i would not have though it would be sucking closed. its a Apexi pod filter also i have a right angle bend for the pod so it sits a bit further away from the engine as is closer to the outside air intake but i dont think this would matter either

thats the filter i have http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=2604

I think it is that

4 of the best Tuners in perth told me it was

A) plug gaps

B) rev limeter

C) fuel cut

I used to have a blead valve and could not adjust boost properly but now i can adjust ot .3 of a psi

So C) was the correct 1 but only after they checked my gaps and tryed to run more boost looking for hp

i tune it my self with the help of turbo smart

if we have a cruz i will show you wat i mean

changed my whole out look on moding my auto

james

The pod shouldn't cause problems. They are one of the best flowing on the market. The pipes do suck in if they are a bit old and you are running a bit of boost, though it would have been spotted on the dyno i'd expect

Was not boost controler more the boost it self

i found the eboost2 very easy to work very precice

soo i could fine tune the controler and no dyno needed 4 that

just turn off the car start it and change boost settings from the cabin

and it a very acuate boost gauge as well some thing i through was a waste of time

how wrong i was

i have tuned mine so well i flat stick it and no more pops and more power cause engine is firing and ecu can handle it

best $915 i spent

james

yeah depends a bit on the dyno though as well some read pritty high. I have never heard of hyperdrive reading high seems they are quiet acurate. Do you have a manaul and rb25 though?

I am going to Mayhems thursday he is gona have a bit of a look he doesn't seem to think its right either

I have power and hold button on the auto umnm i think the computer learns

Edited by AntonRx7

yeah cause it takes a bit of time for it to change gears sometimes so would make it a bit slower. Boost seems to fluctuate up and down at the end of the rev range a bit as well as i have recorded it on my defi gauge dono if that is just from bouncing of the limiter. I will see if it does it tnite as i am not 100% sure if its is the limit. Either way still has got nothin to do with why its low on hp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
    • Time: Saturday 18th January - 9am -10:30am Where:  Cafe By Lamanna 10 English St, Essendon Fields VIC 3041  - https://g.co/kgs/mhVKvAB Registration: So we can give the cafe a heads up on rough booking numbers please rsvp below Registration Link: https://forms.gle/wPtfj9Gp8bvCiouo8
    • Welcome Gabriel. At least your car has a glorious RB and not the shitty CA18. As MBS206 mentioned all the good bits can be added later. Two doors or four?
    • And half of them have been converted to turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...