Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok in the last two weeks my car has started doing this. when i'm driving the car to work in the morning, probably every second day the car completely shuts itself down.

it usually happens when the oil is at 10 degrees below normal temperature.And everytime, the hicas light comes on and then the 4wd light follows. then the engine loses power and stops.

then after this happens it takes almost an hour for the car to start again.Also when i try to start the car the fuel pump doesn't make the buzzing sound like normal.

the car is stock except for a cat-back exhaust, oh and it is an r32 gtr

any help is really appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95739-engine-shuts-down/
Share on other sites

I had this problem 2 weeks ago, and it is already fixed, it cost me $470. Mechanican changed 4 sparkplugs and replace some thing to control the fuel go into the engine because the fuel wasn't burning completely. So first, u can try to change sparkplugs and see how it goes. That may save u some money.

How old is your battery? Skylines are notorious for their susceptibility to voltages and charge rates.

The other possibility is the ignitor module for the coils - they tend to be susceptible to excessive heat and will often stop until given the chance to cool off a bit.

yeh that sounds like it could be it, it happens intermittently just before the oil gets to working temp, but it doesn't happen all the time, 70% of the time it drives fine

although usually before it happens the car has a slight miss, sorry to hear about you're car what replaced it?

My car is doing this also. It was fine before I took it to the mechanic, he replaced the AFM cause they said the car was running lean. Now it drops out on me and has flat spots. I usually just wait a minute before starting it again and then it seems to be ok. It happended for a couple days. Then i fiddled around with the AFM it didn't do it for 2 days.. now its doing it again. So i'm guessing the mechanic put in a dodgy AFM. Or maybe its the fuel pump. I have to take it back and get them to look at it. I just hope this doesn't cause any damage to any other parts of the engine, the turbo especially. All of the misfiring and stopping and starting.

I had this problem 2 weeks ago, and it is already fixed, it cost me $470. Mechanican changed 4 sparkplugs and replace some thing to control the fuel go into the engine because the fuel wasn't burning completely. So first, u can try to change sparkplugs and see how it goes. That may save u some money.

do you know what the part was that the mech changed?

So have you fixed ur car?? because my car just happen exactly the same problem again. And i don't want to spen any more money on this, what did you do for ur car. and do you know where are the spark plugs, i can't find where it is.

Well thats a good one. Spark plugs are under your coil pack cover. The aluminium bit that goes over your engine head (In the middle). Under that you have your coil pack, then under that are your spark plugs. =)

Do you have an Rb20,25 or 26? The Rb20, you might need to take off the oil hose on the top first.

Well done, I hope your C.A.S. was the problem... how much did you spend all up to fix your problem?

Thanks. B)

Well thats a good one.  Spark plugs are under your coil pack cover.  The aluminium bit that goes over your engine head (In the middle).  Under that you have your coil pack, then under that are your spark plugs. =)

Do you have an Rb20,25 or 26? The Rb20, you might need to take off the oil hose on the top first.

Well done, I hope your C.A.S. was the problem... how much did you spend all up to fix your problem?

Thanks.  B)

First, I spent 470, then 3 weeks later it seem like happen again, machanican recomenced me to change bigger muffler becaue it can burn more fuel. I bourgh a full Apexi muffler system, it cost me only 520, now car works perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...