Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok in the last two weeks my car has started doing this. when i'm driving the car to work in the morning, probably every second day the car completely shuts itself down.

it usually happens when the oil is at 10 degrees below normal temperature.And everytime, the hicas light comes on and then the 4wd light follows. then the engine loses power and stops.

then after this happens it takes almost an hour for the car to start again.Also when i try to start the car the fuel pump doesn't make the buzzing sound like normal.

the car is stock except for a cat-back exhaust, oh and it is an r32 gtr

any help is really appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95739-engine-shuts-down/
Share on other sites

I had this problem 2 weeks ago, and it is already fixed, it cost me $470. Mechanican changed 4 sparkplugs and replace some thing to control the fuel go into the engine because the fuel wasn't burning completely. So first, u can try to change sparkplugs and see how it goes. That may save u some money.

How old is your battery? Skylines are notorious for their susceptibility to voltages and charge rates.

The other possibility is the ignitor module for the coils - they tend to be susceptible to excessive heat and will often stop until given the chance to cool off a bit.

yeh that sounds like it could be it, it happens intermittently just before the oil gets to working temp, but it doesn't happen all the time, 70% of the time it drives fine

although usually before it happens the car has a slight miss, sorry to hear about you're car what replaced it?

My car is doing this also. It was fine before I took it to the mechanic, he replaced the AFM cause they said the car was running lean. Now it drops out on me and has flat spots. I usually just wait a minute before starting it again and then it seems to be ok. It happended for a couple days. Then i fiddled around with the AFM it didn't do it for 2 days.. now its doing it again. So i'm guessing the mechanic put in a dodgy AFM. Or maybe its the fuel pump. I have to take it back and get them to look at it. I just hope this doesn't cause any damage to any other parts of the engine, the turbo especially. All of the misfiring and stopping and starting.

I had this problem 2 weeks ago, and it is already fixed, it cost me $470. Mechanican changed 4 sparkplugs and replace some thing to control the fuel go into the engine because the fuel wasn't burning completely. So first, u can try to change sparkplugs and see how it goes. That may save u some money.

do you know what the part was that the mech changed?

So have you fixed ur car?? because my car just happen exactly the same problem again. And i don't want to spen any more money on this, what did you do for ur car. and do you know where are the spark plugs, i can't find where it is.

Well thats a good one. Spark plugs are under your coil pack cover. The aluminium bit that goes over your engine head (In the middle). Under that you have your coil pack, then under that are your spark plugs. =)

Do you have an Rb20,25 or 26? The Rb20, you might need to take off the oil hose on the top first.

Well done, I hope your C.A.S. was the problem... how much did you spend all up to fix your problem?

Thanks. B)

Well thats a good one.  Spark plugs are under your coil pack cover.  The aluminium bit that goes over your engine head (In the middle).  Under that you have your coil pack, then under that are your spark plugs. =)

Do you have an Rb20,25 or 26? The Rb20, you might need to take off the oil hose on the top first.

Well done, I hope your C.A.S. was the problem... how much did you spend all up to fix your problem?

Thanks.  B)

First, I spent 470, then 3 weeks later it seem like happen again, machanican recomenced me to change bigger muffler becaue it can burn more fuel. I bourgh a full Apexi muffler system, it cost me only 520, now car works perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) T脺V'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the T脺V ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
    • What I don't understand here is that it mentions using a sealant. So either way you're ruining the inside of the tire and making a huge mess to clean up. Why not just do that, air it back up to spec, then take it all off and put it back in the car? Also, why not just include a plug kit that's not garbage?
    • What a f**king weener. I have worked in Gary, IN. At the time there were more gun deaths each night there than almost anywhere else in the world. Still not a reason to be afraid. 95% of people from your part of the world only have 3 teeth left from when you were addicted to meth, and now you're perpetually wrecked by Fentanyl. The only saving grace is that most of you didn't vote for Trumpler. Speaking of which, I'm off to the oval office right now. Got to relieve my bowels.  
  • Create New...