Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone! i just put 4 new tyres on my series II 33 2day and thought i'd wear them in a lil + i was being edged on my guys at work :) i didnt want to but i reved her up and dropped the clutch and all i got was some major clutch slippage. the car was moving forward but damn did it smell. then all the way home driving only to 3 grand, everytime i stop i could still smell the clutch. then once i got home :D it smells really burnt. how long for the smell to go away and what is the expected life-span of a standard clutch does anyone know? i have 59,xxxkms on the clock.

thanks heaps

- Ross.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/
Share on other sites

take it easy till you can afford a new clutch. Your car may have a few more kms that 59k - most cars are wound back. Even then it could be possible that you only get 60k kms out of a clutch. You can get a Heavy duty replacement for around $350..or a nissan patrol clutch (hmm maybe not actually because yours is series 2).

Budget on about $800-$1000 installed. You may need new rear main seal etc..

If you drive sensibly I would guess about 90k kms. Im only guessing as Im new to turbos and expect them to go through them a bit quicker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-1742643
Share on other sites

if the car still drives and it doesnt slip at high rpm it should be alrite still, just dont thrash it till you can afford to get a new clutch. when mine went its was a really hot day and i couldnt drive my car above 2000rpm it would just rev and slip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-1743443
Share on other sites

Yeah i had that funk going on about 3 weeks before mine went... not the best feeling in the world when you first discover its on the way out. One day on the way to pick up some pizzas, driving like a granny, it totally gave up... had to struggle my way there and home, doing no more then 2500rpm :)

Is the clutch peddle really spongy? Do you have a massive take up point or whatever its called?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-1743555
Share on other sites

Just don't forget that the expected life of the clutch will drop significantly for modified cars.. The standard clutch just isn't made for too much more than standard power. Currently looking at alternatives myself as my clutch is on the way out too.

Edited by Fry_33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-1746282
Share on other sites

i thought my clutch was slippin and carrying on. I bought a brand new clutch (button single) to replace my twin plate one.. pulled out the twin and there was a nut that came loose off one of the pressure plate fingers.. (fitted the new clutch and the carrier for the thrust bearing was wrong anyway, nice waste of an hour :angry:) fixed the twin plate and put it back in (still meat left on the plates strangely enough) and BLED THE COMPLETE CLUTCH SYSTEM! This is a really good idea if your brake fluid is soaking up alot of water (use on of those brake fluid testers to tell). I think the majority of the problem was hydraulic anyways.. *sighs* ;)

Edited by Mumbo#5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-1746413
Share on other sites

i got my s1 r33 bout 3 months ago..the first few nights i got it, i dropped the clutch a few times, it slipped as well.

but when i gun it hard without dropping the clutch its normal.

so it seems to only happen if i drop the clutch enough to wheel spin, sometimes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-1747158
Share on other sites

Mine was shagged when I got the car. Same deal, couldn't drive over 2000rpm if it was trying to boost. Went the Cenral Coast and back to Sydney though.

I have a problem now though, my 4 month old clutch is doing the same damn thing! Is the clutch adjustable? is there any reason why it might not be clamping properly? Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-1748127
Share on other sites

Yup my clutch is gettin really bad.. slips like crazy.. cars done 78k.. s2 33, stock, apart from exhaust..

But yea i get the clutch smell as well n damm does it stink.. Cant wait till my new clutch goes in this weekend hopefully..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-1750143
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
hey everyone! i just put 4 new tyres on my series II 33 2day and thought i'd wear them in a lil + i was being edged on my guys at work :D i didnt want to but i reved her up and dropped the clutch and all i got was some major clutch slippage. the car was moving forward but damn did it smell. then all the way home driving only to 3 grand, everytime i stop i could still smell the clutch. then once i got home :( it smells really burnt. how long for the smell to go away and what is the expected life-span of a standard clutch does anyone know? i have 59,xxxkms on the clock.

thanks heaps

- Ross.

Yeah i had that funk going on about 3 weeks before mine went... not the best feeling in the world when you first discover its on the way out. One day on the way to pick up some pizzas, driving like a granny, it totally gave up... had to struggle my way there and home, doing no more then 2500rpm :(

Is the clutch peddle really spongy? Do you have a massive take up point or whatever its called?

Just a cuple of days ago i wanted to run the car in a little, and see what she could do dropping the clucth (as much as i was hurting to do it - i had to try at least once) - i had major slipping 1st - 2nd and even slightly 3rd on my attempt (without properly realising). Right after, the clutch was spongy for about 30 seconds.

When my car was stationary, the smell of the clutch burning was pretty bad.... now a couple of days later, the smell seems to be fading, but is still there slightly - i think nearly gone - theres been no sponyness anymore). I've been driving the car ever since with no slippage on boost, and performaing as it was when i purchased it, with the slight smell here and there.

What should i expect from this? I'll be driving more conservatively now, until i save up for a new clucth - hope she doesn't let go :(

*note - stock car with just an cat-back exhaust - stock clutch as well i think*

First time this has happened, so im slightly worried.

Any helpful guidence would be appreciated :blink:

*forgot to mention - I also tested out the clucth going on a steep hill in 4th gear (approx 40-50km/h) full throttle and there was no slippage*

Cheers,

Steve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95769-r33-clutch-smell/#findComment-2528653
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...