Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if its manual, in good nick, i rekin you could start your asking price over $20k, as many do on carsales....

and be prepared to drop a bit....but if its good condition, and maybe has some mods you can probably get around the $19-$20k mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95770-skyline-prices/#findComment-1733323
Share on other sites

Assuming it is standard and in fair/good condition, based on the ones I looked at. I would put it around the 17K mark and probably drop to 16K at the lowest. There are lots around the 20K mark but they dont seem to be selling IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95770-skyline-prices/#findComment-1733846
Share on other sites

over 20k for a stock line?

ROFL... ease up

a) we dont know that its stock

B) its a series 2, and a lot of series 1's are selling at $15-$17k.

and c) you dont set your asking price at what you hope to get for it. you always add more on so that there is room to move

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95770-skyline-prices/#findComment-1733866
Share on other sites

no point adding 4k onto the asking price now is there?

there is no "set" rule that says you have to add $$$ onto it.

Your much more likely to have a lot more people enquire if the price is cheaper etc so your only cutting yourself outta the market if you add say, 4k onto the price as everyone will look and not even bother

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95770-skyline-prices/#findComment-1733986
Share on other sites

yeah $4k is a bit rich...but i think you should at least ask a little bit more than what you're willing to accept, just so that when you get the bargainers coming, you do have room to move, and they think they are getting it cheaper than what u wanted to sell for.

but we know basically nothing about this guys car, no mods, no condition details etc...its shooting blind

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95770-skyline-prices/#findComment-1734106
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...