Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im gettin a new exhaust fitted on friday and i was going to buy a HYBRID setup to bolt straight on(so to speak). But...the exhaust guy said that he can get one almost identical to hybrid for a few hundred less. i think its Japanese from what he said. Has anyone used an imitation something like this? should i stick with the hybrid? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95786-hybrid-imitation/
Share on other sites

Im gettin a new exhaust fitted on friday and i was going to buy a HYBRID setup to bolt straight on(so to speak). But...the exhaust guy said that he can get one almost identical to hybrid for a few hundred less. i think its Japanese from what he said. Has anyone used an imitation something like this? should i stick with the hybrid? :P

i guess your talking about hybird copy aka chinacopy coolers;

you can pick one up now adays for between $200 - $400 depends where you buy, they are good but you get what you pay for so basicly a REAL JAP SPEC cooler (ARC,Apexi etc etc) will always be better than a cheap china copy.

But saying that im running one without problems and i know people pushinh 400-450rwhp without a problem too :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95786-hybrid-imitation/#findComment-1733598
Share on other sites

there is nothing wrong with the china copy coolers. they look quite good and do the job perfectly, however they are very heavy...

I have had one and would have one again. However if i could find a gtr cooler for the same price i would pick the gtr cooler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95786-hybrid-imitation/#findComment-1733681
Share on other sites

This is a stupid arguement, and I really think some people miss the point entirely.

Hybrid has achieved what they set out to achieve by creating a 'brand' name for themselves which leads consumers to compare the quality of some coolers and other products on the market to the 'genuine Hybrid' item.

On the subject of intercoolers,Hybrid were basically the first company to tap into the cheap intercooler market with the intercoolers made in China and Taiwan but after years of having the cheapest coolers around, every man and his dog now knows which factory they come out of and is buying them direct.

Intercoolers, exhaust systems and other products from China and Taiwan surprisingly are of a very high standard and really are a decent quality product. The cheap intercoolers that flood the market handle some decent power figures too - up and in some cases over 300kw in fact.

The majority of the exhaust systems and manifolds that are now available are also of a high standard

Cliff notes: Comparing a 'hybrid' product with a typical china made intercooler is pointless, its the same product, only hybrid bungs a plate on the top to brand these coolers and other products as their own.

Considering places like Just Jap sell these intercoolers for $175 delivered on this very forum, I dont think you can go wrong - I will be fitting one on my GTS-T shortly and I have looked at enough of them to be satisfied with the quality.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95786-hybrid-imitation/#findComment-1733753
Share on other sites

am i missing something here...? isn't he asking about exhaust not I/C?

the exhaust guy is probably looking at getting you an X-force exhaust.

they are quite a bit cheaper than most other stuff around, but are still of a reasonable quality. pretty loud exhaust, bit droney tho

either way, found out exactly what you are getting and research what you should be paying for it. nothing worse than finding out a week later that you paid too much :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95786-hybrid-imitation/#findComment-1733766
Share on other sites

What Blitz said !! And if you doubt the quality of thsee intercoolers that are coming out of China, give Steve a call at Just Jap and he'll tell you about the facility they are built in and the quality control testing they put each and every intercooler through before releasing them for use. :P

With that said though, in general, I still don't condone the way that one company spends big $'s on R & D only to have their product copied ( sometimes very poorly ) by some sweat shop in China !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95786-hybrid-imitation/#findComment-1733805
Share on other sites

am i missing something here...? isn't he asking about exhaust not I/C?

the exhaust guy is probably looking at getting you an X-force exhaust.

they are quite a bit cheaper than most other stuff around, but are still of a reasonable quality. pretty loud exhaust, bit droney tho

either way, found out exactly what you are getting and research what you should be paying for it. nothing worse than finding out a week later that you paid too much :P

sorry i may have worded it wrong at the start. i am gettin an exhaust fitted friday AND also getting a FMIC. and the rest explains itself. but my exhaust guy is saying he'll charge about $800-$850 fully fitted for the lot. is this roughly a common price for those guys that said they have these systems fitted?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95786-hybrid-imitation/#findComment-1733919
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't "upload" the pictures. Just copy the picture direct from somewhere (I usually am pasting screenshots or something else that I have on the clipboard as an image, not as a file" and just paste it direct into the post editor. Just like you were pasting it into a Word doc or something. You can't damage something if you lift it where you are supposed to. If you look carefully at the correct jacking points, you will see that they are reinforced right there. And nowhere else. That is where the "foot" of the factory jack is supposed to sit. That's why you need rubber pads with slots. 10mm might not be deep enough. Note also that the slots are not required if the pinchweld has already been slammed flat. You could just lift it at the correct spot with a flat pad, because the damage is already done. No point in making worse though, if it is recoverable. IF. Yes, that's called a chassis rail. You can lift carefully on these, if you spread the load. A decent block of wood is good. But keep in mind what I said before. Any time you start doing this sort of thing, you are off the normal path and into "be bloody careful", because it is obviously not stable. Dumb. The refinforcement is already there. See above.
    • yeah looks like they've been lifted there previously but with solid not slitted rubber blocks. I'd just bend them back (combination of vice grips or hammer with some sort of drift, then hit the area with underbody protection paint. As for the siderails, I'd call those chassis rails and that is exactly what I meant about being careful with the balance point. You can probably lift off them at the point where the 2 pieces overlap, but you need to be careful with the forward balance of the car if you do when the engine is in....sills are a better choice. I guess you could weld some reinforcement in the sill area near the jacking points but it shouldn't be necessary if you use blocks with a slit. If you do want to reinforce it I'd use square section equal or taller than the seam and then just use flat rubber blocks for lifting
    • driver side sidemember and jacking point (looks the worst by far) driver side rear jack point passenger side sidemember and jack point passenger side rear jack point   Ignore my mug on the last photo. Turns out I was just too stupid to properly use the forum's attachment feature previously
    • Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb?     A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
    • Yeah titanium always looks cool but I don't need that, just regular pipes would be fine. But I am really struggling to find any full hardpipe kit that is still for sale.
×
×
  • Create New...