Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So you guys really rate the GCG hi-flow as the best option for the 34GTT?  I have an auto as well and probably chasing 250rwkw for the time being.  How much extra kw will this turbo give just by itself :D  I'm currently on about 200 so I don't know.  If it's a long way off, I might as well get a different turbo.

We rate it as a good comprimise. An upgraded turbo needs supporting mods like injectors, fuel pump etc. to be used properly.

Pick a power figure then pick a turbo to suit. You don't want 250rwkw with a 2835ProS because you are wasting the turbos top end and therefore introducing needless lag. But if you can get 250 with a GCG highflow without getting out of its efficiency zone then you have chosen the right turbo for your required power. (And saved yourself a big pile of money in the process:D)

Search!!!

Since i searched this to death recently... :

without cams most are getting 230-250rwkw, mostly 240-250, some are around 220-230 (and seem to have been a little disappointed)

with cams up to 265 eg SK's cars

I spent a lot of time trying to compare GCG hiflows Vs HKS GT-RS, but i can't find many power figures for the HKS item :( they seem fairly similar though...

Edited by Beeble

All the information you guys need is already on here.

For a GT-RS or GCG highflow you will need injectors, fuel pump, probably a fuel regulator, full exhaust, high flow panel filter or pod in a box, some sort of engine management and modification or replacement of the AFM to turbo pipe which will suck closed at this power level.

A GT-RS is a slight step up from the GCG HF. People have achieved 300rwkw with cams. If you high flow an R33 turbo you will not get as much power as a highflow of the R34 turbo as the exhaust housing is bigger on the R34. An alternative is to put a VG30 rear housing on the R33 turbo.

I've got 480cc Nismo injectors. I don't know/remember what Bass Junky has used. Also, did you go to Z32 AFM Bass?

i had my car dyno'd the other day as i had a ebc fitted to stop rich retard or boost cut or whatever it was. With stock computer and boosted to 10psi i only pulled 160rwkw. I have blitz lm fmic 3" exhaust filter. That seems a little low what do you guys think. Its and auto r34 by the way.

Bass,

Id like to compare your car to mine as i pulled 244 rwkw in my R33 HKS 2535 on 14psi (no cams), on the Racepace dyno.

It would be interesting to see how they compare!

Can i race the winner, ive got a 2535 and only pushed 231rwkw.

thanks bass.

was that with same mods as me? ie I/C exhaust?

i have bought emanage ultimate and am waiting for an ignition signal adaptor to come so i can fit it. I wonder how much more power i get. How much did you get with computer?

SK's 265rwkw figure was recorded in Shootout mode which at 250rwkw reportedly gives about 10-15 rwkw higher figure.

Quick clarificatin, we have been able to duplicate the 265 rwkw (+ or - a couple of rwkw) in non Shoot Out mode. Several times during winter with ambient temperatures in the mid teens and inlet (to the filter) temps just under 20 degrees.

It is one of the reasons why I can confidently say that Shoot Out mode doesn't ALWAYS give higher power readings. Well, not on our dyno anyway.

:( cheers :(

What is the most power you can get out of a GCG hi-flow with all supporting mods on an R33 GTS-T manual?

We have seen an R34GTT (R34GTT turbine housing) with 275 rwkw. That's on Sydney Optimax. If I remember rightly Bullant (Ian) acheived similar with his R33GTST using a VG30 turbine housing. Using Elf TurboMax I have seen 310 rwkw.

:( cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

OK so a GCG hi-flow would be good for up to about 250rwkw... after a decent tune. I'm assuming that the SAFCII won't be good enough for tuning purposes?

So for all supporting mods:

1 x hi flo turbo or similiar

1 x new fuel pump

1 x adjustable fule reg

1 x new management system???

Would you guys reccomend getting new injectors or would the R34 stock injectors be good for 250rwkw?

Stan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
    • I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:  
    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
×
×
  • Create New...