Jump to content
SAU Community

Securing A Sub - Ideas?


predator
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've got a 12" sub in the back on my R32.. but its' giving me the royal shits.. as the damn thing keeps sliding around and bunching up the carpet, and I end up finding it at all sides of the boot... and it ends up ripping its wires out from the amp. So i've actually taken it out as I had enough, and something was just going to get majorly damaged eventually.

Now the solution could be to stop driving like a mad person, but as we know, that's not going to happen.

so - how do most people secure a standard subbox to the boot of an r32?

I am not sure the best way to do it.. I was thinking of a strap or something, but secured to where?

The must be a fairly standard way to secure them to the boot, more specifically any pointers on an R32 gts-t ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha...i have an r33 with the same problem.....wat u can do is be smart and buy some corner brackets (those 90 degree thingos from bunnings) and jus screw it in2 ur floor....ordo wat i do...backseat...and belt it up.hahahaha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey,

i went to a hardware store and bought a strap with one of those little clips that you can push on and pull the strap tight. on my 34 i was able to thread it down behind the back edge of the carpet and the through some of the metal structure of the boot floor and back out over the top of the sub box. also makes it easy to take the box out if you're going to the track or need to get at your spare.

my car doesn't have the bit of wood stuff for the boot floor but the other option is to get one made one up and screw the box onto that. the sub still might go flying as you pull -1G getting air though. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heh.

I've got a rear strut brace so i just use an adjustable strap (eg like you would use for tying something down to roof racks) to hold my box in place. The box is black carpet so you can hardly see it :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found a bolt welded to the underside of the parcel tray support. Bolted a bracket made from flat aluminium 40mm x 2.5mm that goes across to the box and down to a mounting point on the side then another bracket was made with the same stuff. It was L shaped. The bottom part of the L goes parallel to the floor and you take out one of the rubber bungs and put a bolt through to another flat piece of aluminium.

You then cut a slit in the carpet which can't be seen when you remove the bracket and the side of the L shape goes up through that to the same mounting point on the side of the box.

This is a really solid mounting which is totally removable. I could go to a track day with it in I'm that confidant of it's strength. The only left over thing if you remove it is a slit in the carpet which you can't even see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

velcro wouldn't be the best, as the problem is the whole carpet moves.. I build an aftermarket mdf floor, so its a bit slipperier than the old piece of cardboard stuff..

Abobob I think has what I was leaning towards... will try some of those ideas soon. Strut brace could make it a lot easier, but don't have one of them.

It's just stupid when it flies around like that.. doesn't even require that much, as the tail always gets the most amount of momentum and anything inside just slides back and forward.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No offense intended to you or anyone else but I think putting 15" subbies in cars is one of the stupidest ideas out there.

Eg; a average kick drum sound has most of it's energy at around 63Hz. A 63Hz sound wave takes 16 feet to travel one cycle. So unless you are 16 feet away from the speaker or more, a very large proportion of the awesome output of a 15" subbie is completely wasted on you.

All you can hear in the car is reflected waves.

This explains why people on the street can hear perfectly the sub bass created (and the number plate rattling) but the idiot in the car doesn't even think it's turned up that loud.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please don't screw it into your floor.. I think that's the fuel tank :)

I've got a rear strut brace, what I've done is bought some cargo looking strap things for $20 from super cheap auto. They are the ones that are flat tape with a lever on the end so you feed the tape through and make it tight with the lever.

I used them both to secure the sub to the brace and it ain't goin nowhere but is still removable for the track etc.

Otherwise mounting brackets into your seats or something - just make sure you don't use a screw too long to stab your passengers, or too short so it falls out.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put some velcrow on the base of the sub. And the that to the carpet. Then lifted up the carpet, and put some of that grippy sheet stuff, simliar to the stuff you use to open hard to open jar lids. As my sub covers my jack this makes it heaps easy to move. As I just lift up the sub, yet it doesnt move unless I pick it up.

Try it anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

velcro could even be enough, true..

Please don't screw it into your floor.. I think that's the fuel tank tongue.gif

yeah, not a good idea.. anyhow, I have worked out what I'm going to do.. Buy some rears, use my old 2 channel I have had sitting there for 2 years doing nothing.

I've built a basic replacement wheel well cover using MDF. Will just make a new one a bit larger (mmm, jigsaw) more in the size of the carpet shape, and screw both my amps to that...

Then use a couple of _| brackets to screw into that, and hold the sub in place at two diagonals. To remove, I simply lift up the sub and over the brackets (and hopefully I won't be getting the car airborn too often :)). This method the carpet will be held in place by the amp screwed to the MDF below. I can also run the cabling a bit later under the carpet, and do a few small holes for it the cables to pop up near the amps, subs, etc so its not spagetti city.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
    • they might see those prop shaft speeds for 1 to 2 secs only 
    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
×
×
  • Create New...