Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why not grab a 3inch single stainless dump pipe off ebay? I got one off JustJap for around $200 delivered. Top quality, fitted to my Stagea (R33-based) without too much worry.

Or spend the extra $100 and get the long length split dump from Batmbl, in mild steel.

I would think a 2.5inch might be restrictive when you (eventually) go chasing higher kw gains........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96104-split-dump-pipe/#findComment-1740608
Share on other sites

to be beneficial they need to split for approx 30cms. that being said batmbl (under business trader section) sells a split dump 3" and front pipe in one unit for around $300 ish i think and its a all in one piece that should do wonders if you have stock dump and front pipe setup

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96104-split-dump-pipe/#findComment-1740625
Share on other sites

Hey guys, i just got back from my local exhaust shop and im having the same issue, wether to get a 1 piece 3" dump or split dump which begins as 2 1/2" then to 3"?? would there be any power gain advantages with the split? cause i heard they reduce tubulance when the waste-gate opens up.. what you guys reckon?? Here are some pics to give you an idea..

post-23753-1132810245.jpg

1 Piece Dump

post-23753-1132810352.jpg

Split Dump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96104-split-dump-pipe/#findComment-1741358
Share on other sites

I'm using the CES split dump/front pipe (great quality btw)...

while i haven't compared the difference between the split and a standard 1 piece pipe, i can tell you that the difference between a split and stock pipes was HUGE. Boost comes on earlier and stronger.

Can also notice a difference when comparing against a couple of others with same mods but just 1 piece dump/front pipe (although this is just by my seat-of-my-pants guage)

like arkon, i believe the theory to be quite sound and that's what initially drew me to the split dump/front...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96104-split-dump-pipe/#findComment-1742702
Share on other sites

to be beneficial they need to split for approx 30cms. that being said batmbl (under business trader section) sells a split dump 3" and front pipe in one unit for around $300 ish i think and its a all in one piece that should do wonders if you have stock dump and front pipe setup

i disagree... i have a genuine HKS split dump (which is not split for 30cm) and a 3" blitz front pipe and the difference the made was huge...

at the end of the day though, the standard dump pipe is a p.o.s... and any of the aftermarket dump / front pipes will benefit your car...

oh yeah if you are changing the dump / front pipe a high flow cat is a must imho...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96104-split-dump-pipe/#findComment-1743573
Share on other sites

I got my split dump put in just a few days ago, car seems to have a much deeper/meaner sounding grunt, however does feel alot more sluggish when coming onto boost, almost regretting getting it put in atm, im just hoping ill see a bit of a benefit in the higher rev ranges - havnt actually experimented too much with this due to the hot weather.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96104-split-dump-pipe/#findComment-1744345
Share on other sites

i remember there was a guy at the ice dyno day a few weeks ago,

he just had the normal mods intercooler/exhust..

he nearly made the same as the cars with the pfcs :P

I thought they wouldnt be so good, but after speaking to him and seeing his result i wana get me one 2

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96104-split-dump-pipe/#findComment-1744660
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...