Jump to content
SAU Community

Can This Be Done For A Rb30det?

RU34ME

By RU34ME,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RU34ME Community Regular

RU34ME

Posted
Posted

as u may hav read on my previous post i think my comp is down on my rb25det....

so what im tryin to find out is if i get a RB25DE head and RB30E bottom end can it be put together with the manifolds n everything off my RB25DET and connect all d wiring and run the normal computer????

i'd prefer this cause i jus paid decent $$$ to get the rb25det put in my s15/180 and now its stuffed, i dont really wanna get it all wired up n stuff again!

thanks for the help guys cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96237-can-this-be-done-for-a-rb30det/
Share on other sites
Scribble Collaborator

Scribble

Posted
Posted

Not sure how well the stock rb25det computer would go for anything over stock. Are you looking to run anything performance savvy or is it just the stock rb25det turbo?

Im sure someone more knowledgable would be able to shed some light onto the computer issue. Oh and you might want a bigger turbo on the thing as well to utilise the bigger capacity.

Good luck!

Wazz Community Regular

Wazz

Posted
Posted (edited)

gotta remember the rb25de out of the r32 doesnt have the standard vct like the rb25det out of the r33's tho so im not sure how the stock rb25 computer would go with it all..

also out of curiousity how much did the conversion cost you? as a drive in drive out package from the workshop or did you do some of the work yourself

Edited by Wazz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ozdavroz
      Best Skyline ever

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Skidmore
      Leather Gucci Bag With Receipt

      By Skidmore · Posted

      Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • Skip33
      Best Skyline ever

      By Skip33 · Posted

      @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • Erelyes
      Jeff R32 Build

      By Erelyes · Posted

      All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...