Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I had a hole-blocked & squashed stock BOV on my R33 and it was a pain in the arse. Boost did come on nicely and it did flutter a bit on low RPM let off but it was so jerky in throttle transition i had to take it off and replace it with another stocker.

If anyone wants it to play with PM me its yours.

Edited by Yeedogga
  • 1 year later...

So whats the final verdict on this? we shouldn't do it because if you do the valve only opens partly? does the boost performance outweigh this con? any proof in the boost performance?

If you think of it as an externally piloted relief valve (if you've done hydraulics this will make sense) then it shouldn't matter if that port is blocked off. There is going to be say 10psi acting on the valve from the bottom (IC pipe boost) and 10psi acting on the top (from manifold to topof BOV) and spring tension at top as well

So the way I see it the vacuum line is the external pilot and when you close the throttle body you will have a negative pressure on the top of the BOV and 10psi at the bottom overcoming spring tension

The little hole shouldn't theoretically make much of a difference to this aspect (the BOV acting as a relief valve when throttle body is closed) at all. Really all that little hole is Doing is drawing air back to the intake which is always under vacuum, which I guess could help raise the valve by adding a negative pressure between the valve seat and internals of the BOV (if that makes sense) perhaps this just speeds up response in the quick moment between positive and negative manifold pressures. Drawings would make this easier lol

Edited by 89CAL

i can't remember, does the plumb back enter before or after the compressor?

if its after then the pressure in the plumb back pipe would be the same as the boost pressure, and therefore it wouldn't be 'leaking' air at all, just simply acting as an equalizers, and when the throttle plate closes that column of rushing air bounces off it, hits the diaphragm of the bov, overcomes the spring tension, thus opening and giving that pressure wave an alternate route. (other than directly back through the intercooler and back at the turbo compressor)

if the plumb back pipe feeds in before the compressor, then i would imagine there could possibly be a significant boost leak because there would be a large vacuum created before the turbo compressor and it would be effectively sucking the air from the bov pipeline, this low pressure created in the bov plumb back pipeline coupled with the high boost pressure in the crossover bar would accentuate the 'leak' (its not really a leak cuz it goes straight back into the turbo again).

thus the air is constantly doing a giant loop an your losing turbo efficiency.

whether or not the 'leak' is really significant or not i have no idea, i suppose it would be good if we saw a dyno chart, where the suggested mod is the only variable.

edit: imagine a mythbusters style for cars where they check shit like this out, i'd watch it.

Edited by karma_syke

bov return enters in the intake pipe (rubber ribbed hose on standard skyline setup)

This vacuum acts to pull the valve up but also pull it down (in the chamber I'm not sure if theres any effective area on the top side of the valve that it can effectivly pull down)

If this is the case then both pressures would basically cancel each other out, depending on surface area etc.

If not then I guess the spring is in place to compensate this, the small hole I dont think would leak enough pressure through to make a difference for this

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...