Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

my s2 33 has had a sqeaky clutch for as long as ive had it (about a year). recently though, when i press the clutch pedal in i can feel and hear a 'notch' about half way through. its like a click, ans usually happens only if the clutch is pressed in fast. i remember reading someones comments on these forums that the predals can go from squaky-notchy -and then break.

can anyone else shed anymore light on this?

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96374-clutch-pedal-sqeaky-not-notchy/
Share on other sites

I have a similar problem. When I press down on my cluth pedal it squeaks (although i've always assumed that the actual pedal itself has just needed a grease up) but recently ie last couple of months the peddle feels like it is notchy. It still seems to have all the same grip, ie The car doesn't feel like its slipping or not getting the power to the ground, its just notchy.

Like Red Emblem said, it is usually about halfway down or up and you can feel a notch, although for me its usually on the upstroke of the releasing the clutch. I would also be interested to know anyone's views on this or if they have fixed it etc.

-Tom

Mine had that. Then when pulling into work, the pedal box broke. Popped all 4 spot welds holding it together, split it, and twisted the box. Me > car towed home

Get under the dash, look at the braket at the top of your clutch pedal. Take note of the side welds.

Mine squeaks like a parrot. I used silicon lubricant spray pretty wildly under there until it stopped, but now it's back 3 weeks later. =-//

And my 4-month old clutch is slipping badly. Doing searches on clutch adjustments atm.

dont start on pedal boxes........ :(

My pedal box where the actual pedal pivots on the hinges snaped completely on one side and made a loud snap like my trans just dropped hehehehe

then the clutch was completely loose and sooo easy to press, gotta get it re welded back up with some reinforcements..........

has anyone attempted doing it themselves???

how much of a bitch is it and what has to be taken apart...

my mech quoted 300 for labour and to re weld it and also re inforce with new brackets....

lucky i havnt taken it too him yet....

Pfft..$300 for labour.

Take off the pin from the clutch master rod, then the 2 nuts holding the cluth master in the engine bay. Get up under teh dash, and theres 1 bolt at the top of the box. Then it comes out. Simply use some scrap pieces of sheet to reinforce the areas where the spot welds are (making sure it will still go back in origional spot after)

Hes charging you to remove 2 nuts, 1 bolt and a little welding....about 3 hours work. I can get my clutch master off and the pedal box out in like 30 mins.

Easy as pie to see in the R33... climb in the footwell on your back, follow the clutch pedal.

It goes to that rod, which goes to a rubber grommit, which goes through to the master cylinder.

weasel: yeah man, your clutch pedal should go to the firewall, where it is held on by a bracket which has been spot-welded to the firewall.

If you want to get everything out of the way to do the welding, then yeah... you'd be pulling half the dash out. I recken you could get in there with the method that I described and chuck a couple of welds on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...