Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone

Just some questions to see if any1 can help.

My car was recently dynoed at 175rwkw at 10psi. Its got a front mount, 3" from the turbo and some other stuff.

I was told that i shouldnt go any higher than 10psi because stuff could snap. The previous owner said he could run 14psi on a bleed valve.

What else can i do to get some more power? i was hoping to get around the 200rwkw with the boost controller but yet...

what else can i do to my car?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96385-rwkw/
Share on other sites

Yes but wen you do that you can hav problems

There is only so much you want to run

After that engine blow up will be around the corner and rwkw does not mean you have a good car t drive

Power with power band is wat you need

james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96385-rwkw/#findComment-1747360
Share on other sites

cant i increase the psi higher than 10psi?

not on the stock turbo. 10-12psi is where its making its max power without putting too much stress on it. Ive heard that running more than 12psi through the stock T3, wont achieve much of a power gain anyway. and that running anything higher than 14psi for extended periods will kill the exhaust wheel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96385-rwkw/#findComment-1747363
Share on other sites

200 +RWKW.

Back in the early days of messing with the rb25's we found that anything over 12lbs wasn't a very good idea, as it places too much strain on the std bottom end hence doesn't promote longetivity.

We found using a high flowed std turbo using a front mount, full 3" exhaust , pfc, boost controller would run at just over 200 rkws but would then run in to issues with fuel pressure etc, so i would recomend using a good quality fuel pump and pressure reg at the least but injectors if you can afford it. When its all said and done you cant axpect to get much more out of a std bottom end and have durability and the ability to be a daily driver etc. Thats why the blokes that are deadly serious about racing etc use os gkn motors that have nearly indesructable bottom ends etc to run rediculous amount of boost.It's also the reason i have built a stout 3ltr motor using good quality internals that will comfortably handle more than 2bar of boost when required.

Regards,

SKYLINE...(Kym) B)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96385-rwkw/#findComment-1747970
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Get something that can spray a bit, something like I'd use is a pressure pack for weed sprayer. I use one with degreaser. Spray it on (make sure you're fully covered up, you don't want that shit on you, especially face/eyes). Alternatively, a paint brush will help here as you can brush and work at the stuff quite aggressively.   Be aware, citric acid can eat metal away and will cause it to rust more later. So make sure you neutralise it when done, and give the fresh metal some protection. That hanger, I'd honestly bin and get something like the Frenchy's drop in replacement. The tank, again, I'd look for something else to replace it with. Remember, as metal turns to rust, it means there's less metal there now. So some patches of your fuel tank are likely to be quite thin.   Personally, Id focus on the front end of things, IE, how did the injectors get clogged if they're meant to be after a fuel filter. Then, once the front is sorted, I'd rig something up, even like a small surge tank, and make sure the engine is now running and all behaving. Then I'd replace the fuel tank and fuel hanger and pump. Also, I'd already be preparing to ditch your fuel filter...  
    • That's looking great! Are you planning to do things like all hidden wiring with it, or you're planning to have it look more like we'd expect an RB in an engine bay to look like?
    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
×
×
  • Create New...