Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Duncan,,,If I ever catch you with a jack under a brake disc your gonna look pretty funny walking around with your torque wrench up ya bum.

Neil.

i was just going to say the same thing... then i remembered that time when duncan badly needed rear discs due to cracking... hmm. perhaps part of the lower arm is a more appropriate place to jack it up. :P

This is a picture of a Whiteline rear spring installed in an R34GTT.  Bit hard to tell from the angle but the top 2 coils are closer together than the other 5 coils.  This ensure that the spring is trapped at full droop (as in the picture).  Once the weight of the car is applied those 2 top coils collapse, sit on top of each other and the suspension movement (eg; compression over bumps) is then taken up by the remaining coils. 

R34_GTST_Rear_Suspension_Full_Small.jpg

I will be very interested in how you find the handling and ride with your design of rear coil spring.

:P Cheers :D

Well I'll certainly keep you informed.

I can see what you are saying. Perhaps mine are not progressive rate springs?

The sucky thing is that because I've been driving around in a stock suspension R31 since I blew the engine on 11/9 anything will seem harder. It will probably take a week or 3 to be able to feel the difference between the old setup and this one.

Luckily I've got another complete set of king springs sitting there which can go in if these ones turn out bad. It's not too hard now I know what I'm doing and the bolts have been recently cracked making it a bit easier.

Here you can see the difference between the unladen stock front springs and the whitelines.. This is in an R32, but similar. I really liked the fact you didn't have to use spring compressors to get the whitelines back in, they are pretty much a "perfect" fit between the strut top and shock.

frontsprings03.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

It's all fairly even. Looks like I've lowered it 2.5cm which is what I wanted. I've driven around a bit and it's firmer than before but not ridiculously so. It was still ok on the highway down the coast and some fairly bumpy roads down there.

I'm yet to get to the track but we will see when I do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...