Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This has been a matter of conjecture for quite sometime and I think it's about time we got some thoughts on the matter.

Below are some Jap terms we all use, but let's clarify the pronunciation!!!

Apexi - "Apex eye", as in Apex of a corner, or "Ah" "pecs" "ee"

Greddy - Greddy. "Gr" "eddy" like the name or "Gee" "Ready"

Jun - "June" the month or "Jun", like sun but with a J

Stagea - "Stage" "A", or "Stage" "e" "ah"

That's just to get started, feel free to add to the list but only after the above has been addressed!

Apexi - ah-pex (there's no freakin "i")

Greddy - Just how you see it "GREDDY" same as if you were coping a "HEADY"

Jun - Just how you see it JUN, as in how Irish people would say run :D

Stagea - Stehgee-A

Bride = brid

That's how I say it anyway. And if you search you WILL find the thread already done this.

Who cares anyway

do you want to know what the most common (mis)pronounciation is? or the actual japanese pronounciation?

the japanese is (phonetically):

ah-pec-sue

juhn (that's a downwards pronounciation - not 'joon')

sue-tey-jia

bu-ree-doh

I've actually never heard a japanese person say 'greddy' - but it's probably gu-reddie

Edited by DaiOni

Mmmm, burito! Hey I thought Apexi was becoming Apexera? I brought an AVCR a little while ago and it had a sticker on the box saying that Apexi was slightly changing it's name in 2005. And I read somewhere in an issue of HPI that GReddy stood for 'Great Eddy', not because of some legendary dude called Eddy but after some sort of weird air flow phenomenon. I say Gee Reddy, but who cares?

"There's very little meat in these gym mats!"

yeah but we speak english here...so we're after the english pronounciation

Which is why you'll get different pronounciations amongst english people because they're not english words. Sort of like castle. Car-sl or cass-l. Not really a right way, just a different way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. I believe the fear of annealing the alloy and weakening it, Every online discussion has someone saying it's bad and potentially a risk when powder coating forged wheels.  
    • I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure.  Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+.   That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.
    • Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.   Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.   Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.
    • Anyone know if it's a problem to powder coat forged alloy wheel centers (Rays/Volk GT-C). some say it's bad and can damage the alloy, some say it's not a problem.
×
×
  • Create New...