Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Just wondering if anyone has come accross this in the past and can offer some advice.

My car was stock standard, and every once and a while (maybe 20% of the time i gave it a flogging) I could clearly hear the engine pinging all through the rev range. I later put a big exhaust and bleed valve to crank up the boost, and had it dyno'd and tuned to hopefully fix pinging. On the dyno it ran fine, but when driving it still pings about 20% of the times i floor it.

Has anyone come accross something like this and can offer some advice as to likely causes? Thanks.

(Skyline R33 GTS-T Series 2)

Edited by McBain
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96532-intermittent-pinging/
Share on other sites

ur cas would be too advanced, injectors could be slightly blocked, spark plugs arent completing combustion, blah blah blah.. theres quite a few reasons why engines ping..

as above changing the tuner would be a good idea, and make SURE you mention u want the pinging problem fixed.. dont jus take a chance that theyll know its pinging as when they have the car it may not do it for them..

:P

Thanks guys.

I will book it in and see how they go.

What petrol are you using? it could be as simple as that. These engines need to good juice, dont be buying the local sh!t on the corner. u need a 98RON fuel e.g. BP ultimate. i had the same problem when i first bought my car and wasnt using the top stuff, and it only ever pinged when i gave it some revs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...