Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dyno.JPG

R33 GTS-T Auto

Pod

FMIC

EBC

High graph = high setting on EBC

Low graph = low setting on EBC (max 175rwkw or so)

As you can see, the high setting is poor on the lower end.

Does anyone have any suggestions on ways I can solve this issue?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96547-analyse-my-dyno-graph/
Share on other sites

wink i friend of mine is running a WOLF 3d in his auto as it has the out puts to run the auto (but i'm no fan of the wolf)

SAFC 2 would be my suggesting, not to $$ second hand and in the right hands can be tuned pretty quickly for reasonable results. Plus with fuel prices like they are now it would most likely paid to get it done. Whats your fuel consumption like with the map running 10:1 when i would think 12.5:1 would be much closer to the mark for a light tuned rb.

pete

wink i friend of mine is running a WOLF 3d in his auto as it has the out puts to run the auto

The PFC also has "outputs to run the auto", no big deal there. The problem is no aftermarket ECU (that I have found) has the shift logic programmed to cut/retard the ignition on gearchanges. I have driven autos with Motec's, Autronics, Wolfs and PFC's and none of them have decent shift quality. They are all very jerky at low throttle openings and have lots of slippage at larger throttle openings. The more power, the worse the slippage. All but one have now had gearbox rebuilds in fairly short intervals.

In the Stagea I have a Jaycar DFA for fuel tuning, a Jaycar IEBC for boost control and an Apexi SITC for ignition tuning. That's a glove box full of piggy backs, but the gearchanges are as good as standard and the gearbox is still alive and kicking.

:P cheers :)

Emanage is better than safc cause you can get it with a ingnision timing

harness

now after that you will need a shif kit

fuel pump reg and injectors

make a box for your pod

hiflow turbo

good for 220rwkw at least on a good turn not maxed out

james

Wink - easily said, as others have but you seem to be missing the point.

PowerFC - dont bother, its possible, but with major side affects you dont want

S-AFC - is what you want and will fix your problem with a little tuning

Wink also is that with your foot flat on the floor to get full throtal

when mine was at 12psi it would pop

i have set it to 10 and now my power band is heaps better

stock ecu cant handle much more than that nether can the turbo

no mention of an exhaust system

james

I forgot to mention the car is also running a 3" turbo back but only stock cat.

It seems general consensus is that a SAFC is the way to go.

However miller brings up the GReddy E-Manage.

The E-Manage costs around the same as a SAFC so can someone give me a quick comparo of the features/differences.

In the end, E-Manage (with Ignition harness) vs SAFC + ITC.

Thank you all for your informative input. Appreciate it! :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...