Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had the factory Reinforcement bar modified to suit the FMIC. was a very neat job too.

However when I went to another place to get the front bumper painted and fitted they removed the Reinforcement bar to fit and attached the FMIC to the headlights.

Now the front end of the car is drooping and not looking good.

Some places will make a custom bar to support the intercooler and fit whatever bumper you have.

In my opinion in the long run it's best to have all the support you can.

Funny enough, i just discovered the other day that mine has been hacked off. I tool the front bar off (to do some repairs.... big chunk of skirt ripped off coming out of my driveway, as i had to turn sharper due to a c0ck in a 4wd opposite me!!!)

But yeah, middle section has been cut, between the headlights... my front bar hangs a bit too..

And i don't have a front mount!

I've seen a couple of bumpers on occasions where the original area where the number plate sits gets cut out to get more air flow to the FMIC and the number plate side mounted. This could only be done if the front end support bar is removed or hacked away.

I imagine leaving it off would not be the greatest idea because of the damage that could be sustained in a front end collision but it allows a FMIC to be fitted much more freely less weight in the front end and different bumpers can be fitted without exposing the front end support bar.

Wonder if I should remove mine....

i fitted my cooler over the wkend and i had to undo the two bolts on each side of the re inforcemnet bar n lift it slightly foward to get my cooler to site right...

Also to get it in with a stock front bar i had to cut out around the mouldings in the centre (where the actual cooler sits) and under the spot lights/blinkers i cut out a around 80mm out so the piping could run properly and the front bar sits as per factory

96086f16.jpg

4a2dcec6.jpg

I would suggest leaving the front reo bar on and just cutting it a LITTLE BIT.

If you run up someones arse while driving u are going to do untold damage without the bar in place.

Remove it at ur own risk but i know that i wont be doing it on my car :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
×
×
  • Create New...