Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a whole heap of stuff laying around guys.

Q45 AFM, will throw in a JR pod filter (K n N equivelent) $150 FIRM

R33 GTR Vspec Stock Supension in excellent conidtion $300

Gizmo Dual Stage Shift light $60 Firm SOLD

Most 33 Interior Trim pieces, roof lights

Rear Seats good condition $50

Standard GTR Turbos (one needs to be rebuilt)

The other is in excellent condition, no shaft play

would be good for an NA conversion. Sell as pair $200

Standard GTR Dumps $40

Bolt In cage for 33, missing main hoop and some brackets $150

33 GTST rear calipers and rotors in good condition $150

33 Center Console $50

Chipped programable R32 GTR ECU (suits 33's aswell) $100

OBX Reclining bucket seats (never used) $350

QLD PLATES 94SKY $500

All parts located in brisbane but willing to ship interstate at buyers expense.

Please PM or call john on 0417 608 538.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96576-garage-sale-r33-bits-and-pieces/
Share on other sites

roll cage is a jap style one, goes around the dash but you need to drill holes to mount it to the floor.

by battery cover, u mean the plastic/carpet thing that seperates the hollow under the parcel tray to the rest of the boot?

if so $50 with shipping.

With the q45afm

obviously they don't bolt straight up to ya air flow box

can ya by flanges to make it fit , or just try and do it yaself .

i have 187rwkw, and going to be hiflowing a stock turbo

would you think this would be a good afm to put on ?

i'll be heading into 230rwkw later on.

THanks

sorry buddy, just trying to reply to everything inbetween work, dont have internet at home so couldnt reply on the weekend. Will do now though.

Q45 AFM, will throw in a JR pod filter (K n N equivelent) $150 FIRM

R

33 GTST rear calipers and rotors in good condition              $150

33 Center Console                                                            $50

Please PM or call john on 0417 608 538.

Do you have the plug for the Q45?

Is the rear calipers 2-pot?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...