Hks 2530 Poor Boost Responce

[1400r]

Hi guys for awhile now Ive thought that 2530's are crap as mine seems to be very laggy top end is great but there is almost no bottom end.

To give you an idea turning down a street 2nd gear foot flat I can almost drive 100m before the rev;s will pickup enough to starting making any boost. Dragging or flat straping it to keep it on boost is fine its more like roll on type events.

At drifting Monday night I was clutchie 3 or 4 times while stock turbo'd 32's were having a ball

Anyway I let a mate (softy on here) drive it the other day as he has one fitted to his ceffy he confirmed that it is very laggy compared to his or even Huddy's cefiro (which is colser to mine in mods)

things I have tried and thought it might be

1. moved Act feed line from front of comp cover to manifold (seemed laggier)

2.d odgie fuel pump I have a walbro but I could have been sold a copy although it has the stamp( Im thinking this as my car feels very doughie going around corners which is the same as my 180 was when its fuel pump was dead)

3. Fuel filter (I have not changed it ever ) looking into that today

4. the stock black hose from Act to comp cover is around the wrong way Im not sure if they have a right way but if they have a restrictor in them it may cause a problem.

5. wastegate is stuffed i.e leaking

6. hks adjust Act is stuffed although I have tried to stock one and it didnt help

7. stock BOV is opening?

8. car needs a remap as the fuel ratio's are around 10.1 making the car feel flat until full boost were the fuel is being used

9. car needs a boost controler (not sure about this one as Ive got the hks act and it feels really laggy not a little bit which a bc might help

on the stock boost gauge my car in 4th 60km sit's just below the mark before zero(sorry hurt my foot so Im driving my g/f car today so I cant look at how the gauge goes)

were does yours sit?

a guy I spoke to the other day with a t3/4 said his sat just under zero 4th gear 60km

oh and a vg30 on a rb20det feel's better than my 2530 bottom end wise

[FAST-GT-R]

jesus.. rwd with twin 2530..

get step 1 cams. you need this for drifting a serious car

also, get some dump pipes(CES)

this will help spool with a EBC.

[paulr33]

twin 2530 or single 2530? sounds like single 2530. what exhaust setup do you have? so no boost controller just plumbed directly to the actuator. have you checked for any leaks in the cooler piping / joiners?

[1400r]

thanks guys yep single turbo no twins (not sure were you got that from)

I have a advance front and dump pipe three inch,

yep no boost controller but I have adj hks actuactor

I have checked all the piping joiners etc (intercooler piping has been on and off the car a few times)

I have had it on the dyno in front of me couldnt hear any leaks

here's a pic of it onces it's on boost after clutching for the 4th time and running 185/50/15's on the back

Edited November 30, 2005 by 1400r

[Cubes]

Throw a PFC in to it, lots of ignition timing and a little on the rich side to bring boost up and aid in low end torque.

[1400r]

fair point cubes but why's it laggier than Huddy's car (he has no pfc or b/c he just has a fcd) I bought a fcd off riverside didnt seem to like my car though wouldnt idle.

I was thinking of leaning of the afr via my adj fuel reg (on a dyno) to see if that helps either that or I'm gonna sell it once some of the cars Terry has coming over arrive.

[Cubes]

Interestering you say you run an adj. fuel reg bleeder.

I used to run one of those on my RB20DET with stock turbo at 1bar and an external bosch pump.

My RB20DET used to run fairly lean through the mid range without the bleeder, using the adj. fuel reg worked wonders for top end power as it pulled it out of the 10:1 afr's.

The problem was to lean out the top end you also have to lean out the already near lean mid range, leaning out furthur made my mid range suck, it felt dougy then all of a sudden it would scream out.

I always got good fuel economy I assume due to the leanish mid range the stock ecu would give, 470km's to a tank running around locally or just over 600 on the open road. I never used to drive it easy, always in to it.

I ended up pulling off the adj. fuel pressure bleed off in favour of more mid range. Give it a try, it may drop the afr's just enough for the mid range and spool to come up.

With the fpr bleeder set not to bleed it still causes a slight delay in the fpr seeing boost and still does cause it to lean out slightly, I found mine would slightly ping if jumping on the throttle 4000rpm+ due to this.

My experience with the fpr bleeder is that it works really well with very minimal mods, in my example an exhaust, stock fuel pump, stock ic, stock turbo at 12psi.

But yer pull off the fpr bleeder and take it for a spin, it may pick up the mid range. It did with my stock turbo running 1bar.

I've got a dyno graph of the lack of mid range due to the pfc bleeder, you can see the torque come up flatten then all of a sudden pick up once afrs go richer. Its a pitty I didnt get the afr sheet.

This was back when Tim (rpm & horsepowerinabox owner back then) just started selling the fpr bleeders.

Edited December 3, 2008 by Cubes

[BHDave]

How's the cat? could be blocked and causing a fair restriction in the exhaust.

[Cubes]

1400r,

Blackwood auto and dyno do cheap power runs $35.

Consider getting one done and checking the afr's.

Edited November 30, 2005 by Cubes

[R31Nismoid]

thanks guys yep single turbo no twins (not sure were you got that from)

your first sentence is a tad mis-leading unless you read it half a dozen times

[R31Nismoid]

yer, good idea to see what it is doing by a dyno session.

Could be (as is so common) more boost was causing the ECU to be very much un-happy causing the car to be worse!

All your listed things, have you actually checked any?

as a few (#9) arent required etc.

Also, get a boost gauge. I wouldnt be trusting the stock item to give anything resembling an accurate reading

[Cubes]

One more thing...

1400R, you said it sits at 0 at 60km/h... What do you mean by this? Do you mean it goes to 0 vacuum when you floor it or does it mean that when cruising it sits on 0.

If its sitting on 0 while cruising then check the little rubber hose going to the factory map sensor that feeds the std boost guage its reading.

My steps would be... Rip that fuel pressure reg bleeder off, if that does help spend the $35 and throw it on the dyno to see whats going on, AFR wise.

Blackwood auto & dyno also have a tool to plug in to the consult port.

Edited November 30, 2005 by Cubes

[1400r]

Thanks guys ive had it on the dyno both at morpowa and at the sau dyno day here in Adelaide. Cubes Im going to take adjustable fuel reg of tonight as you might be onto something and Ill spin the black Act hose around.

When Im cruising it sits just below the mark before zero so when I put my foot down it has to get to zero

sorry for the confusion guys

diff + toe + pain killers = brain no workie

Yep I have a blitz boost gauge just not sure of the vac numbers it runs while cruising on it as it in the air con vent near my leg so I dont look at it much unless full boost checking

car sits on -60 at idle though?

Blocked cat is what softy suggested so might be worth a look as he also commented on how quiet my car was, although when I put the front pipe on the cat appeared to be fine from the front anyway.

Dyno run with the higher line is with a bleed valve running of the fpr to try and bring the ratios down(must have been quicker than adjusting the fpr itself) mind u this run was at 11psi Im now runing 1 to 1.1 bar

[Cubes]

Not sure if its comparable... On the stock guage the RB30DET @ 60km/h on cruise sits at around -5.5x100mmHg.

Idle is ~ -6x100mmHg

----

The file doesn't appear to work.

Save as jpg?

Edited November 30, 2005 by Cubes

[1400r]

Thanks guys ive had it on the dyno both at morpowa and at the sau dyno day here in Adelaide. Cubes Im going to take adjustable fuel reg of tonight as you might be onto something and Ill spin the black Act hose around.

When Im cruising it sits just below the mark before zero so when I put my foot down it has to get to zero

sorry for the confusion guys

diff + toe + pain killers = brain no workie

Yep I have a blitz boost gauge just not sure of the vac numbers it runs while cruising on it as it in the air con vent near my leg so I dont look at it much unless full boost checking

car sits on -60 at idle though?

Blocked cat is what softy suggested so might be worth a look as he also commented on how quiet my car was, although when I put the front pipe on the cat appeared to be fine from the front anyway.

Dyno run with the higher line is with a bleed valve running of the fpr to try and bring the ratios down(must have been quicker than adjusting the fpr itself) mind u this run was at 11psi Im now runing 1 to 1.1 bar

untitled.bmp

Edited November 30, 2005 by 1400r

[1400r]

buggar got the dyno pic of my recently downloaded (under my controls)images wish I could find my old thread with it

[1400r]

http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1126866526.jpg

hows that?

[1400r]

and this ones the afr's

http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1126866782.jpg

[Cubes]

Looks ok at that boost level.. No doubt more boost will get it running lean pretty quick.

Pull it out the fpr bleed see how it goes.

Boost is also super linear... which is strange.

Edited November 30, 2005 by Cubes

[HRthirtyone]

your cooler piping could be too big, there could be exhaust manifold leaks before the turbo, no preload on the wastegate, boost leaks etc etc. theres so many things that you can check your self first.