Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

quite possibly that would just be from an external accelerometer than something in the ecu? what other things are on the dash? if theyre largely mechanical type things (rather than typical sensor readings from consult) then id say thats what it is

does it say anything in the service/user manual (if there is one?)

Edited by NewKleer

The R34's show the G-sensors digitally on the dash for 2000 models up, and mechanically for 98-2000 models.

The R32 GTRs and GTS4's have a couple of G-sensors around the place, but you don't get to see what they're doing. I think they would go to the ECU though.

I'm pretty sure the g-sensor would need to report to the ECU for ATTESSA functionality, unless of course there's a sperate unit/controller for it...

Also, just to confirm... HICAS is also controlled from the ECU? Or does it just manage the steering angle sensor and the like somewhere else?

Re: G-sensor ECU input for R32 GTR. The last few pages are the relevant section. It's the Autospeed article on the R32 from years back.

Thanks for the article, which for those that havn't read it, explains how to intercept the signal between the accelerometer (g-sensor) and the ECU. Which also allows for modification (i.e. piggyback system).

However, what I'd like to do, is read the sensor output voltage from the ECU (via the consult port)

Suppose we could try some reverse engineering.

trying to read g-sensor via consult port would mean reprogramming the ecu (and knowing how to do something like that). would take 5% of the time of that to just read the voltage directly from the sensor.

The documentation I have read implies that there *is* a consult port (that is, it had an id byte after a two byte initialisation)

it just doesn't seem to be wired up.

Of course, I could be wrong.

though it appears that all the computers get *all* their data as sensor voltages.... ahh, the possiblilties are endless

(when I make that attessa controller, I'll share it with confidence - as opposed to state my theory and get shot to pieces)

While I'm at it, I'll ask this question:

What are the inputs to the hicas computer, AND how does it control the pump (r32).

heck - the same with attessa. I have partial information on the input, none on how it controls the centre diff.

I suspect I'll need to get at it with a multimeter one day...

supposedly air con, hicas, and auto transmission can be queried via consult protocol, but ive never had success. i saw a table of whats supported in what vehicle, and i think the common cars only support ecu, whereas gtr and z32 (which ive never tried) support some of the others

Consult and Conzult work with AirCon, Hicas and Auto Trans in the Z32's. They each have their own seperate control unit but all read from the DDL.

quote=NewKleer,31 Jan 2006, 06:26 PM]

supposedly air con, hicas, and auto transmission can be queried via consult protocol, but ive never had success. i saw a table of whats supported in what vehicle, and i think the common cars only support ecu, whereas gtr and z32 (which ive never tried) support some of the others

  • 2 weeks later...

have released an alpha version of ecu talk while or work on the consult lcd

http://www.ecutalk.com

needs .net framework 1.1, links on the downloads page there

Edited by NewKleer
supposedly air con, hicas, and auto transmission can be queried via consult protocol, but ive never had success. i saw a table of whats supported in what vehicle, and i think the common cars only support ecu, whereas gtr and z32 (which ive never tried) support some of the others

on my r32 gtr the hicas ecu wont respond to the initialisation unless there are delays between bytes but the engine ecu responds with no delays could be to do with the extra distance to the hicas ecu in the boot or even the different processor used by hicas, my ac ecu also remains silent with no delays but i have only just discovered

the need for delays and have not tested for the aircon delays yet.

i read that plms have to send initialisation more than once sometimes they are possibly not using delays.

my hicas responds to hex ff ff e4 with 10 then i send d1 f0 hicas then streams the error codes FF020000 ff start byte, 02 number of data bytes following, 0000 error code bytes ie no errors when ignition was last turned off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • S2/3 GT-R is the same as S2 GTS-t The SRS airbags module in under the centre console. The S1/S1.5 GTS-t and S1 GT-R had the module built into the steering wheel. FWIW, I have a S3 GT-R wheel in my S2 GTS-t shit box. Same airbag plug, airbag light goes on then off, meaning all systems are go. S3 GT-R has red stitching, that's about it.
    • Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?
    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
    • I'm going to run hard lines front to back in the future. That should help dissipate a bit more heat. If not, a fuel cooler might be next 
×
×
  • Create New...