Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I currently have an r32 waiting for some suspension upgrades though im not sure what will be needed for a few drift laps.

i have in possesion a pair of GAB coilovers for the rear of the r32 with damper control. I was wondering:

what spring rate i should use for the rear end?

Also what spring rate is recommended for the front?

What will i need to lower the front and make it stiffer than it already is?

How much will it cost to make the front end stiffer and lower if at all possible??

I plan to get all the work done by my a local suspension specialist. The car is a daily driver so something in between good handling and everyday driving would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96908-r32-drift-spring-rates/
Share on other sites

My suggestion would be to go for adjustable stabilisr bars rather than very high spring rates. That way you can back off the antiroll with the stabiliser bars for road driving. Check out the Group Buy on R32GTST Whiteline/Bilstein parts first, it has most of what you need;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85466

Then if you have any further questions please ask away.

:D cheers :D

8kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear are quite common combinations for drift cars, that is what I would suggest.

As far as damper goes. have a play around with it. But you'll probably find full hard on rear, and fairly soft on front will be the best combination for drift / oversteer.

A lot of people are selling japanese suspension and buying the group buy stuff, so it's a good opportunity to pick up some of the jap stuff. You might also find, that with this style of suspension, you can leave swaybar upgrades alone for now.

Whilst im sure SK is about to flame me for recommending japanese suspension ;-) -- but the reality is, japanese suspension with high spring rates are ideal for drift, and has been proven in japan (though not too street friendly...)

Whilst im sure SK is about to flame me for recommending japanese suspension ;-)   --   but the reality is,  japanese suspension with high spring rates are ideal for drift, and has been proven in japan  (though not too street friendly...)

No flaming from me on that one, for 100% drift car the suspension set up needs to be quite stiff. But

The car is a daily driver

I believe the best way to achieve dual aims like that (road 99% - drift 1%) would be with adjustable stabiliser bars.

:) cheers :)

PS; I am not sure that comparing Japanese suspension with Japanese suspension actualy proves that Japanese suspension is best. There are a few guys now running Australian suspension. One particular WRX, with what is basically circuit race Proflex in it, seems to be doing quite well lately. After having no joy with Japanese drift suspension.

Edited by Sydneykid

yeah, for daily driver. fair enough. It really depends how competative you want to get with track events etc. The more and more you put on your car, the less street legal it's gonna get.

e.g. my car is now almost 100% drift car now, since I bought a sigma as a daily driver

Well, i'm sure you can buy suspension from many countries which would come under the category as "too stiff". I'm using Quantum suspension in my car now, which is an English brand, which is just as hard (if not harder) than a lot of japanese brands i've seen/used.

It seems as though alot of the japanese brands are more suitable for drift than circuit

"One particular WRX, with what is basically circuit race Proflex in it, seems to be doing quite well lately. After having no joy with Japanese drift suspension."

sk I dont think that the Jap maker was thinking that someone would try drift there rex when they made the sus so its no really drfit sus is it?

U should upgrade ur shocks and springs, depending on where ur from, u could find some sick aftermarket springs and shocks like Tein, JIC etc from some jap part importers. Going realtively cheap too, like $700 for TEIN HR's....non damper but killer stiffness. just put ur GABS on the rear set em stiff and find some front coilovers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For something a little more serious, Davinci Resolve is about the best there is for free video editors. No expiration dates or watermarks, completely free.
    • Well, it's taken me until the last week of 2024 to actually do something on the Skyline but I consider it a good head start to 2025's efforts! I managed to justify (to myself anyway...) my purchase of the lift table. It made taking the rear subframe out a lot easier than it would have been without anyway! Everything is out and stripped down ready for a clean then powdercoating.  She's pretty grubby under there but pretty good condition for a 38 year old Japanese tin bucket. 12 years of zero street time have obviously helped that... I need to decide which of the factory suspension arms I will keep and replace so I only get what I'm keeping powdercoated.  Baby steps but it's a start!  
    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...