Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are called Starcorp Racing Impuls.

Very cheap, especially if you get the package deal (with crap Falken ZE-326 tyres):

http://www.tempetyres.com.au

Edited by Wink

Yes I failed to mention that the real deal is called Work Equipe. Will be WAY more expensive than the Starcorp replicas.

When it comes to rims, go Jap/Euro or go home. :blink:

Edited by Wink
Yes I failed to mention that the real deal is called Work Equipe. Will be WAY more expensive than the Starcorp replicas.

When it comes to rims, go Jap/Euro or go home.  :blink:

Yeah, Work certainly aren't known for being cheap. They make good rims though. I'll have to do a bit of research on them before I even consider getting them. Thanks for the help.

Cheers,

Michael

At the last SAU NSW cruise, there were about a half a dozen people with those rims.

I was considering them for a while too, but when I had a look at them closely I just found that they looked cheap. Nothing I can write out, but when I look at the finish and the edges of the spokes, it just says "dodgy chinese knock-off" wheel.

At the last SAU NSW cruise, there were about a half a dozen people with those rims.

I was considering them for a while too, but when I had a look at them closely I just found that they looked cheap. Nothing I can write out, but when I look at the finish and the edges of the spokes, it just says "dodgy chinese knock-off" wheel.

I have noticed that they are different from the Work ones, as the studs that go around the edge stop on every spoke on the knockoffs. I'll try and see both in person before I make any decision. $4500 vs $1900 (or lower) is a big difference though.

I don't really know what offsets my car needs, but the JZX110 was listed as needing this from the Work website. I'd assume the 100 is the same:

Model Holes and PCD Front Wheel Tyres Rear Wheel Tyres

JZX110 5H-114.3 19×8.0JJ+38 225/35 19×9.0JJ+45 245/35

The fronts wouldn't be deep dish, but the backs would be apparently.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
    • I'm mark from Idaho.
×
×
  • Create New...