Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

u bet, 1st day i have off, headunit will be installed (hopefully headrest TV's and 2nd DVD player + PS2)

aswell as me lowering that baby to the ground.. mm 4cm off the ground *drools*

guess ill have to make that exhaust abit louder too *pulls out drill* j/k

when you lower a car too much, you reduce the suspension travel, thus resulting in reduced performance of the car.

Exactly, Nissan designed the Stagea to operate within certain heights, you can lower it a fair bit. But once you get to slamming height;

1. There is no travel left to absorb bumps, it hops from bump to bump. This means no steering, no braking and no traction to accelerate.

2. It hits the bump stops regularly, this means a harsh, uncomfortable ride. Add that to the most likely excessively high Japanese spring rates and you have a Stagea that no one will want to ride in.

3. Because of the Nissan design paramteters, the suspension geometry goes all to pieces, it will have too much negative camber and wear out the tyres fast. You will have silly stuff like 245 mm wide tyres with only 185 mm touching the ground. This means no steering, no braking and no traction to accelerate.

4. The drive shafts will be at excessive angles this means they soak up lots of extra power, this means slower acceleration.

That's why we say LOW IS SLOW

:P cheers:)

PS; I came back because I couldn't stand the thought of a slammed Stagea with 250 4wkw killing people because it wouldn't go around corners, won't stop and starts flying through the air at the smallest bump. We have lost too many Skyline owners to that mentality.

well more of what i was saying is, when i get home, im going to slam it to see how pimp it looks.. then raise it so i can get out of my driveway....just so that should mean instead of the car being @ 20cm off ground, maybe 8-10cm :) we shall see

701%204.jpg

^^ thats worse than 4wd :)

Measure the height, centre of wheel to guard. Standard is around 385 mm front and 375 mm rear, that is around 5mm lower than brand new. The lowest you want to go and keep some suspension travel and sensible geometry is ~350 mm front and ~340 mm rear.

:) cheers :)

PS; That is what mine is in the pictures

Mine is about that height too SK, it looks a lot better but still handles well enough.

I have a bad problem with camber, as i'm running a whiteline camber kit, but it's still about -1.5 degrees out. the guy i went to said he can put some adjustable camber bars or some such thing in, apparently he said they use them in race cars to negate the rear camber. fully adjustable setup.

tough as a bowl of custard! nah just kidding thats an awesome colour, id buy it anyday. an S2, aswell. Was thinking about 34 taillights for mine, but you'd have to split them in half, i think...

another body mod to think about - suicide doors for the back. gangster caddy style. if your going to airbag it, go some spinners. not my style, but if your gonna go halfway, might as well go the rest.

ps mine sits more NAVARA than stagea too - seriously after some suspension. just a hassle getting it.

im going for a more function over form approach atm. get it going quick, handling well, and stopping when i tell it to, THEN ill worry about how pretty and babe pulling it is.

Edited by qikstagea
Mine is about that height too SK, it looks a lot better but still handles well enough.

I have a bad problem with camber, as i'm running a whiteline camber kit, but it's still about -1.5 degrees out. the guy i went to said he can put some adjustable camber bars or some such thing in, apparently he said they use them in race cars to negate the rear camber. fully adjustable setup.

I am a bit confused, sorry I need some help;

1.Is that front or rear camber?

2. What does "-1.5 degree out" mean? The recommended rear setting is 0.25 to 0.5 degrees negative, so is yours 2.0 degrees negative? The recommended front setting is 0.5 to 1.0 degree negative, so is yours 2.5 degrees negative?

3. If front, you must have something bent, 2.5 degrees is unreachable with the camber adjusters set on max positive adjustment (regardless of how low it is). Best to find out what is bent rather than patch it up with spherical jointed arms.

3. If rear, you need 2 camber kits. One for the inner upper on the control arm and one for the outer upper. The outer bush is in the upright (hub), so has to be removed unless the workshop has a special tool for removing the bush while the upright is still in the car.

This thread explains why I don't recommend using spherical joints in road cars.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...64&hl=spherical

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

Sorry. it's rear camber. i must have said that a bit odd, sorry not a suspension mechanic. i meant it was at -1.5 degrees on the rear, even after i'd had a camber kit installed on it.

maybe i just need to get another camber kit installed, i'm not sure if i did get 1 or 2 put on originally, but the guy i got to install it knows his stuff, so i'd assume he's tried everything to get it straight.

My car arrived last night, its much lower than I first anticipated...Scraped it a few times already, exhaust sits very low. The ride is fantastic! Very firm, is that how they are supposed to be standard?

My car arrived last night, its much lower than I first anticipated...Scraped it a few times already, exhaust sits very low. The ride is fantastic! Very firm, is that how they are supposed to be standard?

What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements?

Should be around 385 mm minimum on the front, if lower than that chances are they not standard Stagea springs.

:D cheers :D

i think u might have aftermarket if its sitting low :D

which would explain why its hard.

not going spinners on my stagea. not my type either

suicide doors sound pimp and i want NOWW!!

i think ill organise rims, stereo, airbags, powermods, then suicide doors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest option, find a NEO head. Put in good springs, decent cams, and send it to the moon. I rev mine to 8600RPM, gets me about 232km/h down the main straight at SMSP bouncing off the limiter in 4th. I've never dared to grab 5th 🥲
    • Gday mate, Personally in my car i run 450kw in an s2 rb25 so also hydraulic lifters and have always run it to 7500 RPM and using some baby 256 poncams with new but stock springs and retainers. While i cant speak on any experience with solid lifters i personally have had no issues with my hydraulic lifters which were just cleaned and set in an oil bath before assembly over 7 years ago. Over 8k RPM is cool IMO and if you are using the stock gearbox or just a box with longer ratios the higher rpm certainly could aid to maintain boost into the next gear as that was always something i struggled with as i have a 3582r also but a hypergear equivalent could aid that issue. In summary i would make a choice on the cam you want to use first then decide which springs and retainers work best with it and then you can toss up if you really need the solid lifters, if the car is mainly street i would learn towards keeping the hydraulic lifters as when installed properly and nothing too hektik going on around them they do the trick.  
    • Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
×
×
  • Create New...