Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as title mentioned I am in need of a new clutch, the one Ihave now started slightly slipping a little while back an i'd rather replace it before its too far gone. Currently its running a 5 button ceramic Exceedy clutch thats been in there about a year and a half.

I think i'll be in need of a good but not too expensive twin plate so i'm looking for a little "advice from experience" about which brands are better than others an drivabilty etc... the car is still street driven (weekends) an fingers crossed i'll be participating an a few of the team wang track days next year, so it needs to be able to cope with some abuse...

STATS:

CAR: R33 gts-t series 1

ENGINE: RB25DET

POWER: well it made 248kw an 760Nm at Autosalon earlier in the year, but since then has a better fuel pump an tune. an am looking into getting it to the 280kw mark with new turbo set-up mid next year...

any advice is welcome, i've seen ORC twins on Nengun.com for $1600 delivered, but dont know much about them, the Exceedy one seem to be more expensive an Nismo copper mix ones being about $2000....so many options...

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96943-in-need-of-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites

if you can get an OS gikken, they are cool to use. Still using tripple plate that came in my car os gikken and it feels like a twin plate. It's a daily driver. around 360 hp at rear wheels.

im running off a OS giken twin plate clutch (came with car)

and i find it very good good drivability (given that it is a twin plate) and bites likes hell when needed (6K launches not a prob and good fun :D )

but as far as i understand they dont come very cheap

but as a good clutch i would very much recommend them

Good Luck

RellikZephyr

.....

Maybe another brand, or a Jim Berry single could be around the same price?

What he said. Mine is VERY bitey, peadal feels almost standard. That was $1200 with the pressure plate all machined up, and a new machined gtr fly wheel. Basically the whole lot new. I love it.

To get his number etc just google his name.

is there an Austrlian site to look into ORC clutches more? or an Australian agent, keen to find out more.

Cant seem to find an OS GIKEN clutch new at a reasonable price

An i'll look into the Jim Berry clutches an see whats on offer.

thanks for the info guys...keep it comin. Anyone know generally how long a twin plate will last? I know is a "depends how you drive" answer but just a ball park idea... "there about the same as a single plate", "there worse than single plate", "same as a factroy item in a factory car"????

Good to hear there almost the same to drive with!!

hey didnt want to start a new thread. Im looking at buying a clutch from marz just a few questions

my clutch has started slipping , i currently have 180kw but i will be upgrading turbo,computer,injectors etc so what kind of clutch would best suit me??

Its a daily driver , ive driven my mates rex he has a button clutch,i didnt mind driving it but not sure wheather id like it every day.

What are the main differences with the button kit and the sports h/d organic??

any feedback appreciated

cheers

ebays the go. just make sure they have got good feedback.

and lots of pics of the product. most of the time there about 500bucks for a twinplate.

not the australia ebay.

www.ebay.com. type in gtr or rb26 or gtst etc. dont type in :clutch: because youl have to sift through a whole heep of oe replacment ones foe wierd usa cars.

Edited by T04GTR

OS Giken would be my suggestion. I've been using the Giken twin disk in my 4G63 drag car that's making 485awkw, and running mid 10's, and it's been great. Be weary of "carbon" claims, as many of them aren't actually carbon on carbon, but carbon on metal. The thing with carbon is that it's gotta be heated up before it'll grab. They usually slip when I'm tuning them on the dyno, until I put some load on them, then they grab very hard. They multi plate assemblys will let you slip them very well and keep the abuse off the rest of the driveline, that's the biggest advantage. On a side not, a TRUE carbon clutch, like ATS, or Tilton, will be extremely costly...like $5k US Dollars. There are some you can find for as "cheap" as $3500 US Dollars, but as far as Im concerned, that's still not cheap by any means!

think i'll steer clear from carbon then, out of my wallets reach,

nothin at all on the ebay front either

still waiting to see what price nengun.com can do a OS GIKEN twin plate for? Still waiting to hear back for Jim Berry. The ORC alloy twin plate new for $1670 delivered is looking pretty good though, 500ps capable, maintains good usable pedal for street/track use, used by Top Secret an in the GT500 racing (plus heaps more) so i'm assuming there great quality.

can anyone tell me if theres any mayjor difference between the ORC 559 an 709 series twin plates? apart from the obvious (ones 550ps rating an the others 700ps). Theres only like $15 difference between the two. Even though i'll be lucky to ever have 550ps....would i be better to get the 700ps?? or would it be much harder to drive with?

Spoke to Jim Berry today.....now theres a guy who knows a lot about clutches!!

Gave some good advice, will probably look at getting a single plate set-up from him, was told it can hold huge hp, an handle clutch abuse (ie: drag strip, circuit racing etc). Would advise anyone looking into clutches to give him a call thats for sure. Aparrantly i may even be able to use some components from my heavy duty clutch an same a bit of $$$, which is always good.

Ash: Is the single plate set-up what you were running in your 31? if so, what was the pedal like? an how did it look when you pulled it out for your engine transplant? was it in there for long?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...