Jump to content
SAU Community

Crank Collar

carl h

By carl h,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

carl h Proficient

carl h

Posted
Posted

i know jun makes a crank collar to fix the slippy oil pump problem for the short snout cranks but where can i get one?

also iirc there was some one on SDU which sold a 'copy' collar for a reasonable price, and since im almost postive that my rb20 was affected by this drive issue i would like to correct it while it is out of the car.....

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/
Share on other sites
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Pro Engines in Queanbeyan now sell these.

I am told that they are made from 4340 Chrome Moly which is as hard as what the crank is made out of.

$150 supplied or $350 fitted. These are not the sort of thing you can fit yourself at home.

http://www.proengines.com.au/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1759599
Share on other sites
proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

To fit the drive collar you need to machine the area of the oil pump drive and seal area down to 35mm and the collar is pressed on and then grub screwed through the oil pump drive flats. I think some people weld up the front of the crank and machine it back but I havent seen one that's done. I prefer the collar idea. We have them CNC machined from 4340 chrome moly so they wear well, it's a very tough steel. I've attached some photos of what's involved.

post-8303-1133612132.jpg

post-8303-1133612166.jpg

post-8303-1133612196.jpg

post-8303-1133612221.jpg

post-8303-1133612248.jpg

post-8303-1133612299.jpg

post-8303-1133612320.jpg

post-8303-1133612349.jpg

post-8303-1133612379.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1762472
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Looks great Greg... will probably need one when I blow my engine sky high and need another rebuild :P (Ask Ed whats im doing with the car).

For anyone that might be concerned about local made "copy"products, Greg does excellent work and has built many a tough GTR's, and always stands by his products. His sump baffles are awesome and a great price too ;) (end of shameless free plug)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1762509
Share on other sites
Skyrine-Dave Mentor

Skyrine-Dave

Posted
Posted

thats some very tidy looking work!

is there anyone in QLD who you would reccommend to do this sort of job? and can actuallt do the job!

how difficult is it to do whilst the engine is still in the car?

once again thats an awesome looking setup you have developed!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1762649
Share on other sites
proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys, I thought it was worthwhile making the collars after seeing the price of the Japanese ones, I fitted one a while back and couldn't believe the price for what they are. We have 3 engines here at the moment that need one which pretty much offset the setup costs to make them. They are being made in batches of 10 so we should always have a few spares around.

Nick, I was talking to Ed about your engine, it should be a good test of what sort of power you can make using the GTR rods. It will be very interesting to see. I should have the 3 litre setup done by the time you eventually break yours!

Dave, you couldn't fit this particular collar while the crank is still in the engine, theres a bit of machining to be done first which needs to be pretty accurate. Most engine shops could fit it once the crank is out, the machining is probably better done in a crank grinder/cylindrical grinder to get it spot on concentric to the centreline of the crank so that both drive flats contact perfectly with the inner gear of the pump I give the collar .002" interference with the snout of the crank which provides the drive, the grub screws are only there as a bit of added insurance. I dont know a lot of engine shops in QLD, I know Bryant Engineering do some very good work, that's not saying that other shops dont though.

I was thinking of making up a spline drive setup similar to what Toyota use on their engines but it would have meant also making a new inner pump gear and as there are so many different pumps available it wouldn't have been worth it. one day in the future maybe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1762663
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted (edited)

Should make up a kit for people doing rebuilds, N1 oil pump with spline drive and sump baffles... get all the oil system sorted in one easy go, and the spline drive will never have any of the problems the RB normal drive has ;)

Yeah the rods will be interesting... talked to a couple of people about it (who are in the know, will fill you in later) and they have all said if I keep a sane rev limit the rods should hold it, its the rod bolts that are the weakest link... (from memory you put the ARP 2000's in mine?). Either way, I know the gearbox isnt going to last a week :P

Edited by Amaru
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1762715
Share on other sites
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

only 200bucks for fitting that. thats very good somhow the basted fil would not cut it i think :P

great to see how its done ;) i always thought it was pushed up against the small factory on(sortof a add-on thing)

cheeres

oh i dont think a spline drive would work due to how the nose of the crank vibrating.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...mpers/index.htm

post-19586-1133651661.jpgpost-19586-1133651745.gif

Edited by T04GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1762725
Share on other sites
my_gtr32 Collaborator

my_gtr32

Posted
Posted

Does this problem only effect series 1 R32 gtr not series 2?

I know the issue was sorted by the time the r33 gtr (series 1) was released, 93 also???

i know jun makes a crank collar to fix the slippy oil pump problem for the short snout cranks but where can i get one?

also iirc there was some one on SDU which sold a 'copy' collar for a reasonable price, and since im almost postive that my rb20 was affected by this drive issue i would like to correct it while it is out of the car.....

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1764647
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
R33 gtr's were released 1993. I thought ALL R33 gtr's had the longer crank???

Can anyone confirm...

R33 GTR wasnt released till 1995 (the GTST was in 1993)... the R32 GTR was still in production through 1994. The last 94 models had the longer crank drive, all R33 and R34's have it as well (GTR's that is).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96950-crank-collar/#findComment-1781292
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...