Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've been using Castrol Synthetic 10W-60 in my '96 R33 GTST SII. Just wondering if you guys think this oil is good for the car..

I DONT want to know "this oil is better than that oil", just if you guys out there think that is oil is good for my car.. ie, is the 10W-60 rating good, if not what rating should i be looking at.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96960-castrol-synthetic-10w-60-opinion/
Share on other sites

To thick for my liking for a good stock engine and road use especialy in winter .Probably good for track use .If you have a built engine with bigger clearances then it maybe good .

OK I give up, isn't the 10W a measure of its cold viscosity?

When I poor 5W30 out of the container it looks pretty much the same thickness as 10W60.

The 60 means it keeps its rating at high temperatures, like a 60W viscosity would.

So the way I understand it 5W30 versus 10W60 is really 5 versus 10 in "thickness" when cold and 30 versus 60 in terms of holding the viscosity at high temperatures.

I thought the 60 meant that the engine COULD run larger tolerances (even when very hot), not that it HAD to run larger tolerances. Isn't it the other way around? If you build the engine with large tolerances and for sustainded high temp work you HAD use 10W60. But if you have an engine with road car tolerances that

doesn't mean you CAN"T use 10W60, it just means you CAN use 5W30.

Personally if I have an engine that has done 100,000 k's or so, I have no idea what tolerances it is now. Using the oil that tolerates the largest tolerance (ie 10W60) would seem logical, as there is no downside from doing so.

Or have the Castrol tech guys been jerking my chain all these years?

:( cheers :P

5w-30 sounds way to light in viscosity for aust climate.

i say 10W-40 is a good compromise.

look in any factory handbook and it will recommend a heavier grade oil in summer and a lighter weight oil in winter.

a find it hard to beleive a 30 weight oil will protect much at all with our hot weather. i beleive it will shear and break down at high temps. if you have an effective frount mount oil cooler and you can keep temps stable then it may not be as much of a concern.

i find it hard to beleive that a true racing car will use something as broad as a 10w-60 rating.

its common fact that an oil is more stable when its high and low viscosity ratings are within a close range or preferably a monograde.

i.e a quick look on the net reveals strictly as an example, penzoil racing oil that comes in 3 flavours SAE50 SAE60 and a 25W-50 for cars where cold starts happen more frequently.

not that any of that matters for a street car.

just adding to the conversation, more then anything :D

I run that stuff - good so far. I do alot of highway and city peak hour driving so i wanted a thicker oil for sustained high temp work, aswell as the option of track days. Was a bit worried that it was too thick but glad i'm not the only one who likes using it...

I generally have not had good experience with the 10w60.

I generally try to stick to something around the same as the recommended rating (7.5w30).

What are these not so positive experiences you speak of?

Remembering that is the recommended rating for a car built to be used in Japan and Japan only. Climate is a little different here to over there. . . . The added extra heat (especially up here in QLD) would usually mean using a slightly heavier oil. I use 15-50 Motul 300V but my car only comes out for fun these days, no daily driving duties any more.

Before I was using Motul 4100 10-40, Castrol 10-60 sound fine for a car that gets used for general duties as well as some possible fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...