Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 93 R32 GTST its auto.

In the morning it runs really really slugish up to 3000rpm for about a mintue or so although if you go high the turbo comes on like a switch, after its been about a minute or so its fine. I have a GCG turbo rom tune gtr injector 040 fuel pump FMIC exhaust and pod.

It has only been happening since the tune I had although tuner said all the air fuel ratios are all good and at first thought it was the auto, i also thought this however i tried to rev it in neutral and it revs very slow too just like how it runs.

Anyone have any idea wat it is?

I know to drive slow when its cold but yeah this is very slow and realy have to be carefull with traffic sorta slow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97020-slugish-cold-start-issue/
Share on other sites

its designed to do this. when the engine is cold (water temp sensor) the ecu retards the timing and adds extra fuel to heat the engine up. during this stage the engine will feel a little flatter and lack response until its heated up. once water temp is around 50deg then its goes to minor level corrections. 80deg is ideal water temp with no correction at all.

also bearing in mind everything else on the car is cold too, diff, gearbox, clutch, bearings etc so its a good thing it lacks response and doesnt come on full stream ahead, prevent bearing / seal excess wear/damage

nah it shouldnt matter how much power it has got. the maps which tell the engine what ign timing and fuel parameters to add for the low load / cruise areas (around 3000rpm ish) wont be any different to your max power tune map areas. the ecu has correction "maps" or settings. these are based on water temp, battery voltage, knock values, air temp (if supported), airflow value and so on.

so based on certain environements the engine is dealt dynamic changes around its environment.

ie when the engine is cold is runs less conservative timing and runs more fuel then when its fully warm. when the engine picks up lots of knock it backs off the timing to protect itself. when the engine detects too much airflow (ie: failed wastegate spring) it protects itself by retarding the timing a lot and dump fuel to richen itself up and try and keep it as safe as possible. when the airflow meter doesnt measure any voltage is does a dynamic rev limit change to 2500rpm. it assumes some air is coming in to allow the engine to run in limp mode but it wont let you rev past, this prevents you from possibly leaning the engine out and causing damage

i also have a rb20det auto R32 and mine does exactly the same thing, very annoying, but once the temp gauge hits the "warmed up" point, you can feel the engine suddenly pick up power. i think the fact we have auto prob "exaggerates" the sluggish feeling.

yeah i just thought it was a bit odd since i have only ever noticed it since tune of the standard computer. Maybe something was fixing in the computer which is why it didn't do it before. Oh well supose ill deal with it. It is a good thing i supose just can't cross the road unless i have a big gap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...