Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greddy Profec B Spec II - Electronic Boost controller

Comes with electronic control unit, solenoid, all wiring and the instruction manual.

Only thing to note: Tiny warp in the top of the case, due to sunlight does not effect the functioning of the unit at all.

Other than that, great condition.

Looking for $350

Located in Newcastle, NSW

Willing to post

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9929/dscf20150ww.jpg

Edited by pyrofonic
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97131-greddy-profec-b-spec-ii/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

$350's a bit much considering the warped casing, that said, $250 would be nice! :D

I'm not officially making an offer yet, as I'm still considering getting one new. I'll keep yours in mind tho - only hesitation is the fact that its had some severe heat damage...

Good luck with the sale,

Adrian.

The warp in the top of the case is only minimal, as can be seen from the photo, and it's strictly asthetic. Unit functions perfectly as it should.

Inspection is welcome, and money back guarantee, I will take the unit back

and give your money back if it doesn't function correctly.

Cool,

Well, all things going well, I might be able to offer $250 with delivery, but no higher. Main reason being, I can get one brand new from Japan for $450 delivered.

I figure second hand is worth around $300 - $350, and with the slight damage to the casing, around the $200 - $250. Might be wrong, and you're welcome to more if you can get it (obviously).

Thanks either way,

Adrian.

One went on eBay in vgc for $305 plus delivery, with no case warping or anything. So I think the 250 mark is about right. That said, I need to gather the dosh before formally making the offer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...