Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Cubes

With regards to how quick each car is....

R33 is quicker in dead stock form.

R32 is quicker with real mild mods such as exhaust, fmic and boost due to the R33's rich and retard.

R33 is quicker once you drop a pfc in to it.

Sorry i would have to dis as a standard 32 pulls way lower power then a 33 in standard and even with both doing the mode upgrade equel the power gain will be ruff the same as the 33 being higher. the real difference is the power to wieght you can make any car quick the main thing is to look at your budget and go for the car that makes your heart sing test drive both get a feel go from there

Sorry i would have to dis as a standard 32 pulls way lower power then a 33 in standard and even with both doing the mode upgrade equel the power gain will be ruff the same as the 33 being higher. the real difference is the power to wieght you can make any car quick the main thing is to look at your budget and go for the car that makes your heart sing test drive both get a feel go from there

I never mentioned power. :rolleyes:

I'll make it a little clearer. :(

With regards to how quick each car is....

R33 is quicker in dead stock form.

R33 is quicker with both only having an exhaust.

R32 is quicker with both having Exhaust, fmic and a boost increase to what is considered the maximum before the ecu starts playing up. (~14-15 for the R32 and ~10-11 for the R33 due to R&R, obviously some R33's are freaks and don't suffer the R&R until ~12psi)

R33 is quicker once you drop a pfc in to it or SAFC.

Not talking about power, talking about the overall package.

Thats the power to weight and diff gears and when the ecu begins having issues with R&R.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=97715

This would be about as good as it gets!!

Or this if it's not sold!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=96481

And i dont know if Will is still sellin his car, best to PM him yourself!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=95532

Most people here are talking about getting a R33 S2 which costs around the near $20,000. He mentioned his maximum budget to be around $13,000. You would only get a S1 for that money and in my opinion I prefer the S2.

I'm currently saving up for an R32 gts-t because for now i think they are P-Plate legal (melbourne) and look nice. R33 S1 are becoming real popular and are seen everywhere.

A 400r kit on a r32 is not bad :P

Edited by Rekin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We are literally just kids stuck in an adult's body with bills and mortgages to pay 🥲
    • Behrman is great quality stuff. My 34 has some serious clouding as well but I’m too nervous to try and replace the glass myself so I haven’t bought them yet. 
    • This might be true if you live in NZ but I can't see how this could be true for us locals here.  I've found the customer support for Haltech to be absolutely amazing. I've turned up to Haltech and spent entire days with their tech support guys, they've even helped me with wiring dramas that had nothing to do with their products.  They have the best customer support of any company I've dealt with, I can't imagine how my experiences with them could possibly be any better.
    • If you want to do a single throttle body conversion easily, you won't need to pull anything apart. Take the linkage from your throttle off the linkage controlling the ITBs. Now open the ITBs wide open, and lock the linkages in said position. Now add a single throttle body onto the front of your inlet plenum. No it's not ideal for the last nth of a kw, but it'll be a lot better than what you're already trying to do...   PS, ITBs can be so damn hard to tune from, because roughly 20% movement in a throttle body equates to a change in roughly 80% of its flow (Hence power). When you add up the flow limitations of those small throttle bodys, it is a LOT higher than that of a single large throttle. Hence, TPS is very very sensitive with them, and you do a LOT of work with sensor fusion, and some Maths behind the scenes to make those blends nice, and be smooth.
    • Yep, when Haltech purchased Adaptronic, and all of the Adaptronic staff, including Andy went with it, it took Haltech to the next level. Haltech wanted Adaptronic as they wanted things like Andy's fuel models, and some other IP, AND they wanted Andy too as he is brilliant! Andy has spoken about the incompatibilities between the old 1500 stuff vs Nexxus, and it totally makes sense. It's not JUST software that is different, there is huge changes in the underlying hardware too. It's why Haltech has had soooo many changes in the last couple of years, in terms of Hardware, and Software, and why it has become so damn Amazing. Why do you think guys like Rob Dahm with his quad rotor, went from running Adaptronic's to running Haltechs? Andy. Pretty much, Haltech these days, is Adaptronic, but with more funds behind it, and more staff, and hence Andy's visions, and visions of other people that he helps shape their great visions, into amazing new products. All the new Nexxus gear, whole new software for it, new and better dashboards, the apps that will run on headunits and NOT be slow to respond! I understand people being burnt in the past, but if you're ragging on a company, about products and issues from many years ago, it's more a reflection on yourself, not looking or keeping up with new stuff. In which case, those people should be going back to PowerFC and Nistunes as the ECU's to rave on about...
×
×
  • Create New...