Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

Another excellent caliper painting thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=duplicolor

The paint schmiddy suggests is absolutely brilliant. Avoid VHT like the plague and use what schmiddy says. :)

good guide, but my main suggestion would be do not do it with the callipers on the car, and definately not with the wheels on the car. no matter how carefull you are there will be overspray. plus you really dont want to be painting them with pads and rotors, suspension etc all around. spend a little extra time and remove the calipers. :ninja:

good guide, but my main suggestion would be do not do it with the callipers on the car, and definately not with the wheels on the car. no matter how carefull you are there will be overspray. plus you really dont want to be painting them with pads and rotors, suspension etc all around. spend a little extra time and remove the calipers. :D

How would one remove the calipers? Hard? Easy? Someone (if they have time) post up a tut on caliper removing? Thanks!

How would one remove the calipers? Hard? Easy? Someone (if they have time) post up a tut on caliper removing? Thanks!

takes 5minutes...

- remove rims

- pull out wire clips from caliper

- remove 1 pin

- remove backing plate (prevents it flicking out)

- remove 2nd pin

- remove pads and shim plates

- undo 17mm (i think) nuts around the back.

- banjo bolts for brake line (make sure to have an empty bottle nearby to put the bolt in.

  • 2 months later...

to remove calipers ther are two 17mm bolts on the back us a 1/2 inch breaker with small extention crack it then use ur ratchet to take off. dont let the caliper swing on the brake hose..

the front su can turn the hub. get a rattlegun in ther and do it that way.. well u can on toyotas.. :(

i reckomend a die grinder to etch out NISSAN after u painted over it.. :(

Better than a die grinder is a piece of wet and dry and a cork block.

Just rub the paint back until you get a nice shiney "nissan"

But be careful, one touch of your nice fresh paint will piss you right off :D

  • 3 months later...

Yep,

Get yourself some Wet and Dry, quite fine grade.

Also, get cork or wooden block.

Wrap wet and dry around the wooden block and carefully sand back the paint.

This is exactly how I did it to mine. The Nissan come up looking brushed and it really makes the calipers look great.

i just removed wheel .. covered hub in news paper and wheel arches and side of car and sprayed in my garage with no wind ..

make sure u tape correctly and make sure you get all the paint off if you didnt mask the disc could smell funny or cause irregular braking which you obviously dont want

I used a wire brush on a drill.Went right back to bare metal.

The paint was great and still is quite good.the rears are pretty much as anodised red as they were when they were first done.though the fronts are faded due to track days and instead of being anodised red they have faded slightly.but still resemble the red colour.i will post up before and now shots tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...