Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well if you have to add a cross-over what exactly is the benefit to running a twin exhaust?

would one large pipe not do the same ?

The cross over won't necessarily decrease the volume of your 2 pipes.

In most setups, the crossover point is just a part of those 2 pipes that are joined, and have their connecting wall removed. It doesn't go into one pipe as such. So your total cross sectional area is not decreased, unlike with a single pipe with the same ground clearance.

The performance reason V8s do it is for scavenging, due to the firing order. With the way the exhaust pulses go down the exhaust there are benefits to having your twin pipes linked at one point.

so in short..

increased flow with better clearance.

so there is a reason.

what if your turbos WERE sequentially staged, would there not be greater benefit to running completley seperate systems?

because from a pressure point of view if one turbo is reacting first would that not create an increase in pressure behind that turbo and where the pipes join create back pressure for the second turbo ???

what if your turbos WERE sequentially staged, would there not be greater benefit to running completley seperate systems?

The answer is no, but I'm not sure how to explain it in a pithy manner.

Its going to actually be worse. If you have 2 completely separate exhaust systems (i.e. from the manifold onwards) then you're only getting half the exhaust load for each turbo, so you have to run smaller ones to make it viable, or introduce too much lag (which defeats the purpose of sequential turbos).

The plumbing would be a lot easier than the bypass-ridden setup that people actually use, but you'd only run "identical twin" turbos if you were to have 2 separate systems.

if i had a gtr i would have, custom tbo manifold, dual 3 inch from tbo back no cat or muffler just rear resonator, and a cross over pipe half way

well you have never had a full twin from front pipes(TWIN 3") have you.I confess i did not have X-over pipe you recommed just two rear individual mufflers.Had the RB scream but with a gurgle.It could be heard 3KM away on a warm summers night Just north of Adelaide .keep that in mind "IF YOU HAD A GTR".SYstem for sale(800km old) as now have 90mm titanium.

Yeah ill be using a cross over, same setup as a lot of twin GTR's in vic.

bear in mind my aim is not to be heard 3km away. I drive the car a little more than once a week and it is being built to pass noice etc

well I have a twin system on my GTR.... if you search under my name there are a stack of pics, and like yellow GTR man :) it is insane loud but sounds oh so cooool....

oh BTW I have a apexi butterfly valve to shut it up for some people that think 130db is anti social...

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...