Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Reading through the workshop manual, it states to replace pistons, shims and pad pins if there is evidence of deformation or corrosion.

Well, I don't know how, but the top of the 5 pistons I pulled out have gouges in them and most have surface corrosion inside. The pad pins were also pretty messy.

Can I get away with a light sand and a polish to remove the corrosion and just ignore the gouges? I can't see the gouges (they look like deep scratches basically)(should take a pic, might do tomorrow) actually hindering the braking effort though? Whether they have imperfections or not, they'll still push nice and hard against the shim.

Any thoughts please guys? Basically I'm going to avoid buying new ones from Mr Nissan unless absolutely necessary. :P

Cheers!

Mark

Corrosion on the 'bore' of the piston - surfaces that see no brake fluid - is not an issue. The main surfaces to be concerned about are those that contact the seal. Any scratches, gouges or corrosion to those surfaces could cause a leak (ie damage the seal)

Mr Nissan charges an arm and a leg for those pistons, I got prices when I thought about rebuilding mine just to know the worst case scenario.

They told me $100 a piston (X8) + $140 for front kit, this was for a GTS4 with M type brakes, I've been told the GTRs and GTSTs/4s use same pistons but different calipers. I was quoted about $200 for labour to rebuild both calipers and kit, assuming no new pistons required.

Good luck, with rebuild!

Thanks for the replies guys. The corrosion is on the bore of the piston and the gouges are on the surface that contacts the shim. So, the seal between the piston and the cylinder is all good :D Cheers Steve!

Damn, I didn't realise they were so expensive! It is good to hear the labour cost because it makes me work harder and take more satisfaction from what is a fairly straight forward (albeit slightly challenging and time consuming) job.

Rear calipers are off and pistons now out, yeehah. Those boots are very very sad - deteriorated so bad they crumble in your fingers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On some cars like MR2 Turbos they're notorious for not letting the wastegate open far enough to avoid overboost, especially certain cheap downpipes. If adjusting "percentage cycle" fixes it then it's just an electronic control issue, not a hardware one.
    • Same.  It's depressing to say this but the skyline can go months on the charger between drives. 
    • I often leave mine connected weeks at a time. The main one I use is the old model of this, it has 2 important features - choose battery chemistry other than lead acid (most of mine are AGM) - power supply mode which you can use to try and recover dead flat batteries as "smart" chargers often don't recognise a dead flat battery is connected https://www.projecta.com.au/products/IC10/intellicharge-10a-bat-chgr The Ctek I  use was meant to have a battery test mode as well but it doesn't work 100% of the time so I am pissed at them. The distributor did everything possible to make warranty and support difficult so I'll stay away in future. The main thing with a "trickle" charger is it has multi stage programs, ie once the battery is full it turns the current right down to just maintain the charge....in the old days we just used real "trickle" chargers for that which had a maximum output of say 500mA which was safe to just leave connected to dumb old lead batteries.
    • I've heard people claim with Just Cars (now defunct) and have been paid out, but painful process, and with Shannons, but noone I know or heard of has claimed with Enthusiast, hence I'm a bit nervous with their policy. Sure I'm "covered" but am I? is the real question
    • I have the Century CC1206 12V 1/3/6Amp 9 Stage Battery Charger. It is different from the one you linked but I don't know in what way. Their manual says that it both can be left on 24/7 and that it shouldn't be left on 24/7. Go figure ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I haven't been game to leave it on there for more than 2 days.
×
×
  • Create New...