Jump to content
SAU Community

Safcii Install


Psiker
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm getting one of these for xmas and was just wondering if it is difficult to install myself or am i better off getting someone proffesional to help me. As i'm getting married soon i can't really afford to workshop it so if its easy I would like to do it myself.

Thanx alot guys and girls.

edit:/ P.S i know i could search guys but im at work and the computers at my work bite balls. Sorry for SAFC thread 2 gazzillion.

Edited by Psiker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yo paul.. i just installed mine myself too.. Quite easy, theres a tutorial on here, but i noticed that the wiring colors on the R33 GTST ecu loom is totally different to the tutorial, other than that, pretty easy tho. I too can give you a hand if you want as im just around the corner in warnbro. I wouldnt bother paying for someone to do it. It took me about 30-45mins maybe to install, and im not exactly an auto electrician

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how do you guys go with setting it up to get the right a/f ratios

p.s. has anyone had a go at fitting there own fmic, just got one and interested in having a look at someones car close up to see what is involved, i am in warnbro

Edited by Pal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pal.. i'm in warnbro too. I fitted my own FMIC and SAFC2, more than happy to give you a few pointers. I got a Hybrid R33 GTST kit off ebay, and found it was pretty easy to install, but a few tricky bits that the instructions didnt tell you.

PS. you can come round and check out mine anytime, im just near the last drop. Ive just PM'd you my mobile number if you want to get in touch

post-10683-1133881335.jpg

As you can see by dyno graph a/f ratios seem pretty constant black line is final tune, just got it done at hyperdrive, took em about 45mins on the dyno to tune safc2. Very happy with their work

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get hold of an AFR meter somehow and only make small changes.

As an SAFC is only a signal bender for the MAF taking out fuel is done by making the ECU think its under less load,the ECU then delivers the fuel needed for that load,BUT it also delivers the timing for that lesser load meaning more timing.When im tuning SAFCs and have to make large changes I plug our Scan tool into the ECU and monitor the delivered timing often having to leave a richer than ideal AFR but that is the safest method.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

just letting psi and damo know my intercoolers in. took 2 days of 8hrs each but got it in. not a fun job by yourself. again thanks guys for your help, couldnt of done it without you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that included me fabricating all the pipework (made from 304 grade 2 1/2" stainless steel) and getting a friend to weld it up, im quite sure it has increased my horsepower. done a 180 degee turn on outlet of intercooler and plumbed back into existing piping (same as psiker's) had to cut alot of the front bar out and move a few things around in front of the radiator. happy with the outcome. have to get it dyno'ed again now. do you think the safc2 will need to be tuned again? and do i need to reset the computer?

Edited by Pal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
    • I am using a pull nismo coppermix twin in an r34 getrag box, had both the standard slave and  then the nismo one. Adjusted pedal to get bite point how I wanted , it is on the higher side, but would fully disengage past half way down.  I also read that the nismo slave won't work but I had no issues with the stroke, might become one later as clutch wears but 2+ years of happy motoring so far.  Take the above as one input only, specially as my setup is a bit unique in that I am using an S15 clutch master , cefiro clutch pedal, custom braided clutch line. Lots of variables at play. 
    • Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎 I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors. You can get a lot of connector stuff here  -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/ Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle) edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin ...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138
    • In no way was i suggesting it’s your fault mate. The trailer cable has a plug that I removed. I will have a closer look, but I did remove the trailer wiring cable with the tow ball as I don’t need it on my silo. i have replaced the fuel pump already there’s no need to remove the cradle again I can see the wire colours from it in.
×
×
  • Create New...