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Ive removed the old RB20 out of my S14 and bought a NEO 25t instead. I also have a MasterPower T3/T4. I was originally going to use an XSPOWER top mount manifold, but because of my problems which ive outlined in this thread (http://d1nz.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9146), im begining to look at the standard manifold as an option. It will: -

A- cost alot less as i dont have to modify my intercooler piping

B- allow me to keep the standard planum as is.

I fitted the turbo on the standard manifold but it sits very, very low. Here are some pics -

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As you can see, the comp out let sits right next the engine mount.

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This is how things are in the S14 engine bay. This turbo will not fit will it? Anyone else have a big turbo mounted on the standard manifold? Will my setup work out?

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Hey mate all you need to do is turn the compressor cover so the outlet faces up, if it hits the manifold get a small spacer made up and longer studs for the manifold.Thats what i did for my 32 and it all fit in fine.

Thanks mate, I will do that. Help with oil lines for the turbo would also be appreciated. Ive never done this before. Can the standard oil lines be used with the new turbo, or will i need custom ones? If so, where do I get them from?

Looking at the turbo, there doesnt seem to be an inlet for the oil lines that are on the engine block? These are the only inlets on the turbo -

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Are these oil or water inlets? There is nothing on the block that resemble these?

Sorry for sounding so clueless, but its the first time a fiddle around with a turbo install. :)

they are oil inlets.

Every turbo needs oil. Not all run water however.

My old t04 never used the water lines.

If the stocker ones you cant get to fit, just but some new ones. The return one you should be able to re-use/modify to fit

For the feedline, just get teflon one made up (under $100) with the proper fittings (take it to a hose shop and they'll know what u need if you take the old ones/turbo down there)

buddy of mine had that same turbo mounted to the stock exhaust manifold on his rb20 which was in a s14 as well, like stated above all that needs to be done is clocking the compressor housing and you will be mint.

on my personal car ive got an rb20 with the hks cast manifold along with the r32 xmember for mounting and even on a lhd car i have had no problems with clearances........you should be good assuming the engine mounts are good.

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Thats better!

Now that the turbo fitment is sorted, I need to figure out the oil feed issue. I was mistaken by saying there is nothing on the block that resembles the inlets on the MasterPower turbo. If you look at the picture below you can see the hose has an inlet identical to 1 on the turbo.

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Now, this inlet goes back INTO the block, which i assume then makes it the 'return line' as you said R31Nismoid (am I correct?). There however is no inlet from the block to go into the top side of the turbo...

This one-

DSC01674.jpg

So what do I do here? And what about the metal lines that you can see (all bent up) in the 1st pic? Shall i just remove them and fit the holes with a screw?

Your time and help is very appreciated guys :)

Thats better!

Now that the turbo fitment is sorted, I need to figure out the oil feed issue. I was mistaken by saying there is nothing on the block that resembles the inlets on the MasterPower turbo. If you look at the picture below you can see the hose has an inlet identical to 1 on the turbo.

Now, this inlet goes back INTO the block, which i assume then makes it the 'return line' as you said R31Nismoid (am I correct?). There however is no inlet from the block to go into the top side of the turbo...

So what do I do here? And what about the metal lines that you can see (all bent up) in the 1st pic? Shall i just remove them and fit the holes with a screw?

Yes the large hole is the drain that goes back into the block under gravity through the large hose down low into the sump.

The metal pipe from the back oif the motor is the water cooling feed to the orig turbo, remove it back around where its in the rubber hose and block the rubber hose where it used to fit into.

AND forget everything i just wrote below! Damn I did not look closely at first - you neeed another flanged fitting at the top replacing the spiraled pipe into the block!

The other metal spiraled pipe is the oil under pressure top feed into the turbo bearing housing. Take that pipe of and make sure that it is completely clean inside and liquid can run through it - they can get blocked or gummed up - then look at the entry hole from the pipe tube into the centre banjo opening and enlarge it at each end if need be - one end may be reduced in size significantly - better to be opened up especially if not a ball bearing turbo. Make sure you use a new copper washer on the top and bottom of the banjo housing to make sure the bolt seals the banjo correctly. You DONT need oil weeping from here when the turbo is under pressure for obvious reasons.

Im a little confused here. So the return feed is sorted.

Your saying the metal pipe that comes from behind the block is the water line which is not used with the new turbo. I will remove it and block it off, so sorted.

Now im left with TWO metal pipe oil feeds on the block (as you can see on the photo on the top) and an inlet feed on the turbo with a flange that doesnt resemble the two metal pipes on the block.

What your saying that I somehow need to make up a custom flange that bolts into the inlet feed flange on the turbo and connect it to the metal oil line pipes from the block? If so, which one? Block one off and use one or somehow merge both oil feed lines into the turbo oil inlet flange?

Am I on the right track here or totally muddled up?!

"Your saying the metal pipe that comes from behind the block is the water line which is not used with the new turbo. I will remove it and block it off, so sorted."

I would just cut the fittings off each end thats not attached to the block and join the two metal pipes together with a rubber hose clamped at each end that way the coolant will still flow through it as it would with the stock setup.

Bypassing any problems u might have if the coolant is also used to cool another section of the engine on its merry way

The metal pipe at the back of the block is a water feed. Get a treaded bung from a hydraulic fittings joint (take your old banjo bolt in as a template for the thread and size) and block it off at the block.

The other water line runs from the back of the head. Remove the rubber hose at the inlet manifold and get a rubber bung and a hose clamp and block it off.

The oil feed is the metal hose with the spiral in it. You will need a custom one to fit your turbo most likely. You will also need an adapter that will bolt to the top of your turbo and has a treaded section in it to accept either a screw in fitting or a banjo bolt. See link below.

http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Turb...d_-6fitting.htm

Your oil return can likely be reused as it looks like you have a t3 based core same as the stocker.

One question. Where's the wastegate supposed to go as it looks like you have a non wastegated exhaust housing.

For everyone who wants to run a line between the water line fittings when you go to a non water cooled turbo, think how it's done on a NA rb. I can tell you now there isn't a random line running around the back of the head.

Ive got a 38mm WG sitting next to me. Gonna weld it on the standard manifold.

I know what i need to do now, thanks to you guys, but one more question still lingers. Ive got the waterline sorted. But there are two metal oil lines on the side of the block. Do they BOTH need to meet together and run into the turbo, or shall i block one and use the other?

EDIT- I just re-read your post BHDave. So your saying there are two waterlines and one oil line? Im a little baffled, as they both emerge from the same area on the block, where there should obviously only be oil, not water? Mind circling my pic and pointing which is the oil line?

Edited by DRFT 14

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