Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

only reason why i bought colover was so when im driving with the young lady i can see here boobs bounce

crap sydney roads are great if you ask me

only buy adjustable coilovers if

A) for boobies

B) for track work :lol:

everyone else is a wanker!!!

Edited by fatz
same here.. i refuse to pay tolls too! thats y i use parra road to get into the city..

yeah I used to use parra rd...4 times a week getting into UNSW for training but now I just use victoria rd/epping road and cross Anzac bridge. cuts the tolls out too!

As bad as the roads are (GTR with tein susp and f + r adjust camber) i cant get over the stupidity and lack of thought put into the organisation of roadwork crews.

If they have to block off 2 out of 3 lanes on a major road, why not start it at midnight? then finish before peak hour in the morning? (Obviously not practical when drying/curing is involved)

I travel very strange hours, and during the day when im out and about the road crews are digging holes and filling them in (not flat either more often than not), but the same road at 330am = empty?

Isnt it the RTA's job to ease jams? Not make them?

Goes to show the lack of care for the motorist from RTA.

Not sure where you're living, but can't say that happens around my neck of the woods.

Around here, road works start at around 20:00 - 21:00, and they're usually done by 02:00 - 03:00. I'd think that they should work through until 05:00, which will still give them time to clean up before the morning traffic comes in....and do a proper 8 hour shift.

Straight down Parramatta Road to where the clock tower is, make a left and head towards Ashfield - WELCOME TO LAND MINE TERRITORY! :P  Funny thing is that everytime I drive through there, I see more and more modified cars :D

Yeah this road is shocking! Frederick street! As I live near by I tend to use it a fair bit and my tein suspension really doesn't like it.

Do you use this road much Satanic? May have seen you around in the R34!

yeah I certainly notice the difference comin from Melbourne to Sydney. The roads over there are far better than the ones here.

In melb if there's a pothole for the first year or so they put a sign up saying "rough surface" and then they get off their arses and fix it properly. In syd it seems they just lift the whole block out and replace the block, not giving a rats arse if its level with the surface on either side (like on Parra Rd).

I travel Parramatta Rd every day from Silverwater Rd to Woodville Rd. I would take the M4 if there was a bloody entry/exit ramp for woodville rd but there isn't. That bloody railway crossing is a pain in the ass, bloody biggest road in Sydney and you have to stop every 10 minutes to let the train go past. Ridiculous!

There are 2 types of Major pavement types rigid and flexible and different usage concrete belongs to rigid, asphalt and bitumen belongs to flexible..depending on design

concrete povement uised in european countries(cannot be compared to Local Road)

-bloody expensive

-very durable, in fact almost no repairs needed for design life of 40yrs

-as far as I know, not in use in Australia, because population are too widespread and hence cheaper to actually fix the road at regular interval

Australian roads uses mainly asphalt and bitumen surfacing

asphalt are a mix of gravels, sand, bitumen..cost approximately 30 times (I think can't remmeber) to bitumen surfacing

on rural roads, bitumen surfacing are used..

-cheaper

-shorter lifespan

-as bitumen layer oxidises they loose their initial elastic charateristic and start to crack..water sips into base, layer and form potholes

- not suited fo high volume of vehicle turning

urban roads, asphalt

- longer lifespan

- has bitumen which acts as a waterproof layer before the asphalt surfacing applied

- simmilar concept, with time the bitumen gets brittle

-more adaptable for locations with high volume of vehicles turning

the Main Roads in W.A, not sure abt sydney usually leash out contracts for private companies to take care of the road... so in fact the stretch of road may not necesarily be under the goverment charge to mantain..Y.

usually potholes are fixed using this mixture called hotmix or sumthing..I can't remember...but it's basically another type of black goo stuff..to be shoved into potholes..

however if there are numerous of potholes, the whole road might have to be rehabilitated...

-remove initial surfacing layer..scraping...

-if base layer thickness are compacted by the yrs and vehicles passing through and are not within Austroad standard minimum requirement additionalbase layer need to be added

- and when that happed, compaction is required, and few more of test and techniques which

-after that surfacing the whole layer...before everythign done..

fixing a stretch of road is costly and take more than a day to be done...so usually roadworks are done during night time closing one lane at a time...and fixing that particular lane..

if that stretch of road is crutial, some serious traffic planning has to be done...if traffic is to be diverted on another road...the volume might exeed the design parameter of that particular road..and end up damaging that road..

this is a main road to syney so there'd be a high volume traffic so traffic disruption is less tolarable..I'm not sure how long the road has been in this condition, but there'll probably plans to restore the road...but will take sometime for approval and paperworks...

~~

I was cruising up epping rd about 80km/h when I hit this fu_King great big pot hole that came out of no-where so hard that it felt like I hit a land mine or something. It was so hard that it shook the whole sunroof/light controls panel out of the ceiling!

You will DEFINITELY need a wheel alignment, and check that you didn't buckle your wheels.

Bummer :)

Straight down Parramatta Road to where the clock tower is, make a left and head towards Ashfield - WELCOME TO LAND MINE TERRITORY! :( Funny thing is that everytime I drive through there, I see more and more modified "

i was in my corolla didn't see it and BANG i hit it,it snapped my exhaust bracket,put a big crack in my windscreen which really SHITS me.

FIX THESE DAM ROADS YOU STUPID GOVERNMENT!

there that felt better.

Edited by eurospec

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...