Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I cant get my wheel locknuts off...dont have the key, gota recheck with guy i got car from...went 2 bob janes 2day 2 c if they could get them off and no luck, then went to the distributers to see if they have spare keys to fit n still no luck. last resort will b 2 chisel them off but might scratch rims...

not sure what type, but its round on the outside and the inside is a 4 point star thing with a thin groove and bubbly (lol) ill get a pic up here tomm...

can any1 help/know any theives who've had expierence in this? lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/
Share on other sites

Except by the sounds of it he has the ones with the internal key which are harder to get off.

But as the others have said, the usual way to get them off is to mash a socket onto it and get it off that way. I had to do that on my SS cause it didn't come with the key for the lock nuts when I bought it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1769293
Share on other sites

Hi all

I cant get my wheel locknuts off...dont have the key, gota recheck with guy i got car from...went 2 bob janes 2day 2 c if they could get them off and no luck, then went to the distributers to see if they have spare keys to fit n still no luck. last resort will b 2 chisel them off but might scratch rims...

not sure what type, but its round on the outside and the inside is a 4 point star thing with a thin groove and bubbly (lol) ill get a pic up here tomm...

can any1 help/know any theives who've had expierence in this? lol

Show us a pic mate, sounds similar to the BMW wheel lock nuts..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1785028
Share on other sites

I had the same problem last week, it took ages to get mine off.

What i did was drill straight down the centre of the stud, with a drill piece almost the same size as the stud, then chiselled as much of the lock nut away as possible, then i jacked the car up and pulled and shook on the rim, then eventually it loosened itself.

After spending days and nights on doing this, cutting up my hands and putting minor scratches on the rim trying to work out ways to get the piece of shit off, i was sitting in the car just looking through stuff and yep you guessed it.......The lock nut key was in the centre console the whole time. :) Ah well

oh yeah my lock nut is the same style as yours too.

Edited by CNFUSD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1790266
Share on other sites

Had the same problem with mine when 1st imported....needed new tyres for blue slip.

Bash job worked ok.

Find the smallest socket that will slide over it and then go the next size down from that.

For me, once i had selected the size, went to Cash Converters and bought the same size socket for 50c and used that one instead of a good one.

Bashed it on as far as it would go, which wasn't very far, then heave ho!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1790280
Share on other sites

vange, just get a cross-bar and hammer the closest size to the lock nut over it. It will come off in 2 seocnds flat. Or take the car to a McLeods or whatever and get them to do it - they do it all the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1792681
Share on other sites

that sucks CNFUSD, all that work 4 nothing....u think urs would fit?

I dont think the chances of mine fitting would be to good, so id say that you would be better off doing what i had to do, or if you can still drive take it to a tyre place, i didnt have that option cos it went flat on a saturday night, so i had to get the thing towed hm.

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97436-wheel-lock-nuts/#findComment-1793952
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, the cause of fuel spills and smells from the top of the tank is almost always the rubber hoses that are up there, not the tank seal.
    • 1. No, as you say you can remove the connectors and fuel lines. Before you do make sure you remove fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to release pressure, and also loosen the fuel cap (just in case the tank is slightly pressurised) as it will pump out the lines otherwise 2. Not necessary but you are right, if it is the factory pump it is at risk of failing after 25 years....Changing it is not hard but potentially not trivial as you have to make sure you have the right pickup/sock for the pump to suit the tank, need to make wiring connections (crimped butt connectors would be fine) and have to mount/adapt the new pump in the right place in the cradle. Not impossible but don't start the job if you aren't confident. Also, the plastic nut that holds that seal in place can be really hard to remove. If you don't have a fuel nut removal tool it generally requires a big screwdriver or similar to bash the ring around a few times before you can get it by hand. Also the fuel lines can be very sticky on the tank lid fittings, hose removal pliers can help or if not twist the hose on the fitting (eg with linesperson's pliers) to break the seal before you try and remove it. Finally, mark the feed and return hoses so you don't put them on backwards and seal them with an m8 bolt to stop crap getting into the lines while working. Add a little grease in the threads of the plastic lid when you go to do it back up as a gift to your future self, and make sure you put it on evenly/not cross threaded.  Having said all that, most likely the lid just needs to be either tightened or removed and put back on without being cross threaded...the seal itself is usually pretty good.
    • Another weekend and another project I have questions about.... I bought a fuel tank sender O ring to install on the car because I'm quite sus on what I've got now.  1. No "whooosh" sound when opening fuel cap 2. If I fill up full tank, there will be a small leak under the car and it comes from the top of the fuel tank, dripping along the side. Stops after a short while 3. Hot days = 50/50 chance to get high as a kite inside the cabin if the car was in the sun for too long This is what I bought: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/1734279900 My plan was to just replace the O ring but I've got some questions: 1. Does the whole fuel pump assembly need to come out for me to replace the O ring?         Or, could I unplug all the connectors and fuel lines at the top, take off the twisty part (17343) and put in the O ring from the top?  2. Is it a very common thing for everyone to just change the pump whenever doing this?        I see the Walbro 255 gets thrown in a lot but I've got no issues with my pump so far. When I did the tune, I asked the guy to check my fuel pressure and he said there were no issues too. But is it just a good idea to change to the 255 anyway as the old unit may have been in there for so long? The 255 seems to be a direct fit for GTT (I got no soldering iron)  
    • Normal speedtek issues, bin it and go cdoo# or 8hp. So many issues with these gearsets, a mate went through 3 rebuilds and multiple parts with heat, bearing and vibration issues.  
    • I wouldn't go near them, they are rubber seals for a reason. Just chuck new cam cover seals, half moons and the spacers for the screws every decade or two. I add a really thin layer of silicone too and it seems to hold together OK  
×
×
  • Create New...