Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Brake Pads For Street R32 Gtr ?


Recommended Posts

Hi,

My brake pads are on their way out and after doing a number of searches wasn't able to find any substantial information.

I have next to no background knowledge on them so any information would be greatly appreciated.

The car is almost entirely used on the street with standard brake setup at the moment.

TIA Jonathan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

was looking at that myself recently. apparently Race Brakes, Bendix, or maybe EBC are the brands ppl are buying. I'm getting some EBC Greenstuff pads tomorrow, having just read (after the fact) that they aren't the best, but it seems there's always someone whose got a good or bad opinion of every pad. Apparently Bendix are cheap and good. Just search.. "bendix racebrakes" and make sure u include results from the "any time period" (as opposed to the last 30 days default). Hopefully ur in a position u can pick and choose and shop around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jonathan you can have my recently removed set of Hitachi's to try if you want? They have plenty of meat left. Only reason I changed them is to fit some RB74's I found. Changing pads is a piece of cake too if you're concerned.

edit: typo

Edited by cowie165
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

Just did a search, and brought up this old thread. I also need some Pads for my R32 GTR. Street use Only. I need some that don't put out so much brake dust, as my current ones do alot. They are Green in colour. Less is better. What's out there that's not too expensive?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another member qouted these back in 2009.

"QFM HPX. Good for 550 degrees, or the about the same performance as Bendix Ultimate, but the HPX's are virtually dust free, unlike most pads at this level of performance. They also have excellent pedal feel, and will be more than enough for a street car."

Anyone else had experience with these?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Id go with bendix ultimates. Ive just changed to them from trw pads and they stop heaps better, although can be a little squeeky under real light braking or heavy braking but

that might go away a bit as ive only had them in for about a week. They are about as dusty as the trw's but the dust is grey and a little less noticeable compared to the ugly

brown dust that the trw's throw out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Il probably be the first one to advise you against the bendix ultimates.

Can get very very squeeky under light braking and after not too long most people mistaken my wheels as being powder coated black from the amount of brake dust.

On the upside though these are only really cosmetic factors you could say and the pad itself does a fairly good job at what its designed to do - make you stop ! Personally I wouldnt buy them again and would rather try out something different on the market

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, ive heard mixed reviews about the Bendix. But I've heard some really good stuff about the QFM A1RM's $119 per pair, no noise, no dust. They are Australian made too.<BR> <BR>http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370569065874?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370569065878?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Edited by 91BNR32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im using remsa pads atm, great for hard street use. Theyre suppose to be better than the hpx's but not quite as good as the a1rm's. Not too dusty and not noisy plus great bite. Dont rate bendix ultimates at all, fade heaps, dusty as hell and they sound like nails on a chalkboard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im using remsa pads atm, great for hard street use. Theyre suppose to be better than the hpx's but not quite as good as the a1rm's. Not too dusty and not noisy plus great bite. Dont rate bendix ultimates at all, fade heaps, dusty as hell and they sound like nails on a chalkboard

^ This man knows.

If you're not doing track work, then don't get the A1RM. If you are, then unfortunately noise is just part and parcel of pads that are capable of that level of performance. I wouldn't say they're a noisy pad, because in 99% of cars they're not, but with opposed pistons calipers (like the Sumitomo and Brembo found on Skylines), noise is occasionally an issue.

Of the 15 or so brands of pads that we do (including EBC and Bendix), our pick for high performance street use would be QFM HPX if dust is of concern, or Remsa if you don't mind trading off a little dust for extra performance. Remsa is what we typically supply to high end Euro sports cars like Porsche/Ferrari/Lambo etc.

EBC's are HIDEOUSLY overpriced, and not that crash hot. They work ok in Europe where their rotors are softer and the ambient temperatures are lower, but over here there's much better pads on the market.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello,new to the group, I bought a R32 from auction recently, wondering if anyone knows the cars history, seems to have the usual go fast bits on it, plan is to do an engine swap- add 2 extra cylinders and 1 extra turbo. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i4rjmlzubjbwjtguh6f4s/IMG20241011140744.jpg?rlkey=q0lumm251377vknbqktfwrycq&st=7scvwx4e&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ro24qmwzlczzlfsr4y05x/Screenshot_2024-10-10-10-49-23-90_9a2f5bb2149dae94cd1e190effc09b33.jpg?rlkey=oyguh26ttshlf04ccp48odf4v&st=xloae97b&dl=0   New to forums and posting pics, if links don't work, take it easy on me, 42yrs old and I tune carburettors!!  
    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
×
×
  • Create New...