Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im doin mine using the s15 complete setup i.e. hubs.. rotors .. calipers... uprights... before iget started... are the brake lines the same or do i need custom shit??... ummm.. just wanted to know... :s

cheers

im doing the same. full s15 - calipers, rotors, hubs, spindles, knuckles, handbrake and lower control arms...

anyone know:

a) will s15 lower control arms fit? if so benefitial due to possibley further out design?

B) handbrake cable... how to modify between a31 and s15 to fit?

cheers bigears

im doing the same. full s15 - calipers, rotors, hubs, spindles, knuckles, handbrake and lower control arms...

anyone know:

a) will s15 lower control arms fit? if so benefitial due to possibley further out design?

B) handbrake cable... how to modify between a31 and s15 to fit?

cheers bigears

Pretty sure S15 lower control arms are different.

The size of the bolts where the strut mounts to the carrier are different on S15 also, S13 style shocks might not have enough meat to be drilled out 2mm.

If you use a R32 GTS-T rear cradle the handbrake is as simple as clipping the cable back on. You will need a bigger master and a double diaphram booster I think.

S13 struts can be redrilled, if done properly, its safe. Its common practice to do so as the s14. s15 struts are longer. You can either use a 14mm drill bit or a 9/16".

If you can find them seperately, its possible to just press out the ball joints for the knuckles, and use the matching ball joints, as said before s14/15 are different.

You will need the new master with the 32 rear brakes, and possibly a new booster, although it might not be worth the hassle, what has the ceffy got on the rear atm?

If you buy 300zx tt spindle and hub from a wrecker, the hub bolts straight up to the S13, then just bolt on the handbrake, and rotor and caliper. Also notice from abservation that R32 GTR hubs looked identical to the 300zx. Can be done for about $300-$400. Also need to get brake booster from 300zx or R32. Here is a good website.

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/projectc...scc_projsilvia/

Also I think the R32 front calipers are much better than the S14/S15 from memory. Aslo check out Nissansilvia.com.au

Had a lot of probs with mine as I have nismo lower controll arms so I was wondering what the hell it had all come off, but seems sorted now.

hey guys am in another dilema, thought my rear was a 300zx, and as I have the whole thing appart I need to get some info to grab the parts to change the hub. The 300zx is too large for the axle and just rotates over the spines, coulld it be an R32, does anyone know if they have a smaller axle. it does have the drum hand brake as well???

  • 1 month later...

just to rehash this thread...

Can i fit R32 skyline 5 stud rear hubs to the back of my ceffy, and redrill the stock rotor to accept 5 stud?

I want to do the 5 stud rear cheap as possible. i dont need the bigger bralkes but i need rims, and 4 stud rims are hard to find

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...