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The Three Litre Thread


SLY33
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probably a bit of topic so i must appologise but the above quote is a little un true.... i can assure people here that Trusts "H" beam rods are Carrillos and they also have carrillo SPS bolts.... just so happens i had a set of Trust rods arrive at the shop the other day.

Fair enough...I always assumed that Trust and HKS rods were exactly the same. I thought that HKS rods were Carillo, When I was sourcing parts for my engine, the aussie distributor (also sells Carillo) thought they were Carillo too. But he had a set of each in stock and compared them while I was on the phone and they were definately different.

So...I wonder where HKS rods come from? And sorry, but I've gotten even further off topic.

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This thread brought a huge smile to my face when I read it!!!!!!!

Talk to any good engine builder and you know what he hates??? Shit that is talked by keyboard warriors who read something somewhere five years ago that was written by a journo in the first place.

REAL WORLD RESULTS PEOPLE, I dont care if you test the rb30 block to the cows come home, they are proven in Australia from asshole to breakfast and I have never heard of none  ever split an engine block or done the crank from a weakness in design its always a bearing problem, from a poorly designed oiling system a problem that all rb's have....

In the REAL WORLD a 2% gain in peak power wouldnt even be able to be felt in the car let be honest a cold night would be more noticable, a 20mg higher magnesium count doesnt mean shit cause something else will go wrong before that even gets a look in. PLease to the doubters please show me all these GTRS that have ripped up the block becuase of torque loadings due to the front diff??? There arent alot of GTRs with rb30's in them and I know of every single one and have researched extensively myself or was involved someway in the build or sold my adapter to and have heard the results!!! Not having a go at anyone but in the real world everyone has budgetry constrants, and the guy who goes for a rb30 over an os kit or a 24u block shouldn't feel he has an inferior product cause in the "real world" the differences in metal composition etc wont play a part in the real demise or survival of an engine!!!!

I agree, the only reason we tested an RB30 block was to satisfy ourselves that all this crap floating around about RB26 extra thickness, stronger material, more of this, less of that ....was exactly that, a load of CRAP.

:blink: cheers :)

PS; our race team machinist was finishing off an RB30 bottom end using one of your 4WD sump adaptors when I was in the machine shop this morning. I have no doubt it will do the job for this application, a 600 bhp circuit race engine bound for the UK.

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to those interested I have designed a new adapter (Gary you will probably like this). It will tie the mains girdle to the side of the bloock as well as the sump, and it is heat treat 6061 aluminium so while is is 40mm plate alloy and strong it is quite light and the aluminium should help dampen some harmonic shocks.

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Edited by Fitzpatrick Speed Works
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  • 4 weeks later...

out of curiosity how do the rb30 bottom end make power and rev compared to the RB26? in a GTR for sydneykid and Fitzpatrick Speed Works

i know that turbo and tuning play a big part in what i have asked i just wanted to know if you can still rev them sweetly to 8500 - 9000rpm or is it not necessary for where the rb30 bottom end makes it's powerband?

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I cant see most RB30s being very happy with reving to 8500-9000rpm i think they need a billet crank cradle or some thing like that and even then i wouldnt be to happy

Edited by blk180
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I believe Bu5ter is reving his to 8500rpm.

Std crank, std cradle, forged rods, forged pistons, full length oil pump drive and most important... An ATI balancer and some one who knows how to rebuild a motor very well.

Edited by Cubes
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