Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, it is.

u can import a grade 4.5 97 GTR R33 V-spec for that price from japan(including everything, even the fees for the broker).

thats my opinion any way.

But its really hard to find a immaculate conditioned GTR R32 nowadays. thats probally y its that much.

What would you pay for a 1994 R32 VSPEC 2 in immaculate condition.

Is 39k too expensive.

Cheers.

At the high end, but probably not unfeasable. Try the following to get an idea of what they sell for & then use one of the cost calculators as below.

http://auctions.amayama.com

www.imports101.com.au

Please note, however that the costs shown on the auction report are in USD (& yen) & DO NOT include for transport etc, ie are not the FOB price. Allow approx Y100,000 for this.

Should give you an idea.

$40 k for an R32 no matter how clean is too much imo.

Try bringing this example to australia , comply it and then registered for under $40 k. It realy depends on the car and how much you are prepared to pay for it , in Japan fine examples like this one bring big money but they are far and few in between . On the other end of the scale you can find 32 gtrs for less than 500,000 jpy .

http://auctions.amayama.com/nissan/skyline/1452011/

would i pay $39 for a vspec II 32? simple answer. no. BUT i'm sure there are plenty of people out there who would as they are one of the most collectable GTRs out there.

Thanks for the replies, this R32 is totally original and the condition is amazing for a 12 year old car.

Were all 1994 VSPEC cars VSPEC 2's and what is the difference between VSPEC 1 and VPEC 2 cars.

I know $39K is a lot of money for a R32, but I am looking for a Late 1993-1994 model in stock condition, do you think I would be bettter off in a non-vspec model and spend the remaing dollars on some nice little extra's.

Cheers

mint as condition I would be prepared to pay $30k absolute tops. I have a real passion for this particular model, but the facts are facts, unless you buy one because you realy want one it just not finacially worth it. Especially with GC to VGC 90's gtr's going now from 16,500 to 20,000 with mod's....

Low km R32 V-Spec II's can attract big $$$ due to being both rare and the last of their kind before the arguably less popular R33 shape was released. They're worth what people are willing to pay, and for some people that is a lot! Just don't expect, with the recent flood of cheap 15 y.o. models, to be able to make a quick sale at that same price if you decide to get rid of it.

I personally WOULD be willing to pay $40k for an IMMACULATE V-Spec II. But it would have to be perfect - there are no compromises at that $$$.

As an aside, there is a wine red R32 that occasionally pops up on Yahoo. It is advertised at Y4,000,000 or so. It has around 3,000km on it! The 'suicide seat' :D has only been used twice. BNR34's often sell for less than that - horses for courses?

i have a vspec 1... and have also driven normal GTR... i would no way ever try and buy a normal GTR and spend money on it to get it 2 VSPEC standard.

I am happy to pay the extra price for such a rare car... for all the GTR owners who cant afford the best the R32 can deliver... go and spend your 22,000 on a GTR and get back to me in a couple of years on how well it is still doing... or how much money u had to spend on a 89-90 GTR to keep it on road, once u start to punish it. Remember they 15 years old, and if still got original turbos.. will soon blow.

There is no argument u can put to me... mate u are better off buying a 93 or 94 vspec... if u have to pay extra price .. who cares.. u would pay that amount on fixing a 89-92 model anyway... and we all know the cost of fixing or modifying a GTR. And in the end u have a rare VSPEC...

Just my thoughts.

Contrary to the above opinion, Vspec and Vspec II are not invincible, but the market demands a premium for these versions, especially the Vspec II. It wouldn't be the sort of car I'd buy to modify, but rather enjoy it stock collectable form.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unfortunately haven’t taken pics yet after it was finished. All the edges are hemmed nicely, just had to cut holes for the gear shifter and seat bolts and seat belt bolts in the rear. The molds seem like they’re done with steam and a layer of glue on the underside to hold a bit of shape but still soft enough that it’s a good fit when it’s all pressed down.
    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
×
×
  • Create New...