Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1988 GT Passage Automatic

HR31 RB20DET Redtop

137,500km

R33 turbo

18" mags

4 doors

interior excellent condition

exterior no dints, paint good condition

Low Springs

Exhaust

Rego to Aug 06

Electronic Windows

Auto headlights & auto wipers

Rear Windscreen wiper

Curbside spotties

New Battery

Rebuilt Starter Motor

A/C Regas'd - Very Cold

Located: Sunshine Coast

post-11838-1134187016.jpg

post-11838-1134187115.jpg

post-11838-1134187187.jpg

post-11838-1134187254.jpg

post-11838-1134187606.jpg

Edited by BLiNKsTaR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97999-1988-gt-passage/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)  
    • I'm sure there are specific hygrometers for it. But if you can just throw a high enough ranged temp sensor (theromcouple that came with your DMM, for example) into a pot of it on the BBQ, you can see when it boils.
    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
    • Yeah, that and throwing away opened, part used, closed back up bottles has got to be bullshit. Brake fluid sits in not-very-well sealed master cylinder reservoirs for literal years and keeps working (albeit we know we should flush it every couple of years - it actually still works). Anything kept in a bottle in the shed with a tightly capped lid has got to be a million times better than what has been in the car for the same length of time.
    • Wait, they're claiming UNOPENED fluid has a shelf life of only 18 months?
×
×
  • Create New...