Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About the drysump,

You ideally need a 4 stage with rear drive to run your PS pump.

Two pickups on the left front of the sump, chanelled over to the RHS to allow for crank rotation.(better in the front as braking generates more G force than acceleration)

One pickup in the back of the head to remove oil from the cam area.

you can choose to run under vacuum, or use a tank return system as shown on my other pic, but the design of the internal tank needs to include a seperator and a condensor.

The other stage of the pump is for pick up from the remote tank, which in my case is mounted inside the car.

The engine block needs to be modified as well, you need to remove the internals of the standard oil pump, block off the pump outlet in the block. We have used two inlets into the main gallery so that each pressures half the oil gallery each. You also need to modify where the factory oil filter goes on.

The pump will onl fit if you make a new custom LHS engine mount, but you would need to check this as my engine sits further back than stock.

post-26885-1140825697.jpg

  • Replies 315
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

>_< run in tune is now booked for the 16th march :yes:

more pics :)

check em out....

3" exhuast with heat wrap, plus the hks 50mm wastegate with 2" screamer pipe to annoy the neighbours :D

110_1018.jpg

my heat shield to keep hot air from the turbo away from the inlet path, it is going to seal hard against the bonnet (with rubber edging) to prevent any hot air entering:) i have a 4" feed coming from the front bumper to supply the pod with cool air.

110_1026.jpg

monster pod filter, biggest i can fit, its got a 6" inlet, 8" overall diameter and 30cm long.

110_1046.jpg

110_1048.jpg

msd coilpacks mounted on custom bracket setup (sit in same position as stock coils and the top cover still fits on like standard, except last coil for cylinder 6 has gotta be on the slight angle as u can see from the pics to clear the cover, though im cutting a hole where the ignitor sits and putting mesh in it to let hot air out of the coilpack area)

110_1051.jpg

110_1054.jpg

110_1058.jpg

110_1060.jpg

fibreglass air duct made for front bumper for cold air feed to pod filter. not bad for a home job, still needs paiting yet

110_1065.jpg

110_1066.jpg

110_1064.jpg

car shots without front grille etc installed...

110_1072.jpg

hopefully this is the view most people see :)

110_1038.jpg

cheers

Brad

Edited by CruiseLiner

Brad that coil setup is a nice piece of work. Very well done and looks neat.

I love the way you still retained the coil over plug setup, not easy to do. Alot of other setups I've seen use leads from the coils.

Brad that coil setup is a nice piece of work. Very well done and looks neat.

I love the way you still retained the coil over plug setup, not easy to do. Alot of other setups I've seen use leads from the coils.

I think i may just have to copy that coil set up, very elegant. Neatly wired, too. Lovely job all told.

About the drysump,

You ideally need a 4 stage with rear drive to run your PS pump.

Two pickups on the left front of the sump, chanelled over to the RHS to allow for crank rotation.(better in the front as braking generates more G force than acceleration)

One pickup in the back of the head to remove oil from the cam area.

you can choose to run under vacuum, or use a tank return system as shown on my other pic, but the design of the internal tank needs to include a seperator and a condensor.

The other stage of the pump is for pick up from the remote tank, which in my case is mounted inside the car.

The engine block needs to be modified as well, you need to remove the internals of the standard oil pump, block off the pump outlet in the block. We have used two inlets into the main gallery so that each pressures half the oil gallery each. You also need to modify where the factory oil filter goes on.

The pump will onl fit if you make a new custom LHS engine mount, but you would need to check this as my engine sits further back than stock.

What a superb engine. If you have any other info, maybe on a web site or whatever you can share I'd love to know all about it! You say you have moved the engine back? What happened to the front driveshafts? Do they run forward at an angle, are they custom, or have I misunderstood and this is a rear wheel drive car? Cheers. Must rate as the most sophiticated RB26 install I have yet seen. Tremendous effort, quite supeb.

Nice job on the engine bay. Does anyone know if those coils can be used with a standard ignitor which will be eventually upgraded to a HKS DLI Ignition Amplifier? I am using a power FC for managment

he is talking about Paul T's car not my stagea :blush:

LOL didnt know that...

where would i go without 4wd :D to the tyre shop alot haha

I reckon it would be sweet to arch em up with 15% throttle.... LOL

You could go for the most number of donuts world record...

Or maby the longest unassistated burnout...... Um Col scratches head....

:D run in tune is now booked for the 16th march :D

more pics :D

check em out....

3" exhuast with heat wrap, plus the hks 50mm wastegate with 2" screamer pipe to annoy the neighbours :blush:

110_1018.jpg

Looks trick, except i would suggest you either get braided lines for boost/vacuum lines, or at least put some high tempo sheating around them....holes in these lines may not result in much fun

cheers for the info roy, i didnt really think about it getting too hot down their with the heat tape on the exhuast, but its been 8 months since ive even seen a turbo run, so i may be under estimating the heat produced :(

dont want unlimited boost now do we :)

im planning on getting one of those exhuast control valves to adjust exhuast volume level from in the car, for even more of a sleeper, and especially when going through RBT's and being pulled over by cops. plus keeping my neighbourhood happy when i come home in the early hours of the morning.

also i dont think the coilpacks will work with the ignitor setup. i had stock coils up until i got the autronics CDI unit and now i can chuck the ignitor pack out and just use the msd coils :)

Looking though and old HPI mag today at work i noticed that kier wilson was only running spitfire coils with HKS twin spark :)

i have been told numerous times by people that i couldnt use stock coils/or splitfires with the autronics CDI setup, only the mercury or msd coil setups, because they fire 3 (i think) times more than stock coils or something and therfore will burn out normal coils real quick.

Edited by CruiseLiner
jsut a suggestion about the exhaust control, get one for your waste gate too :D

they still let air through, but even if the cop gets u to rev for a test.. it might just help keep it abit more hush hush :D

Wastegate wont open at idle, only when it tries to limit boost that it will open.

and then you get a loveley sounding

Barrrrrrrpppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppp!!

"LOVE THE GATE"

Can't wait to see a vid of this thing in action........ And hear the Gate on full song! :P

Edited by MADGT4
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi ๐Ÿ™‹โ€โ™‚๏ธ. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? ๐Ÿ˜ƒ  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this ๐Ÿ™
    • Hi, Marek here ๐Ÿ™‹โ€โ™‚๏ธ. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
ร—
ร—
  • Create New...