Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got some second hand rims with rubber. Took it in to get a puncture repaired then put all the four wheels on, but then it was shaking quite badly.

Do I need to have the wheel balanced at all? I haven't taken the rubber off at all so I'm guessing I don't

Then do I need a wheel alignment? will that fix the shaking problem?

Thanks all

You most definetly need a wheel alignment and you may also need to get the wheels balanced. You should get a wheel alignment always when you put new tyres on.

Hope it helps!!!

i just thought since the tyres are all second hand and already came with the rims and they all have the weight things stuck on it, it might already be balanced......is that right? or wrong?

the shuddering with be the wheels needing a balence they usally do that when changing tyres, my friend got some new rims and they balenced them but they had to put spacers on too and didnt balence those with the rims and it shook like buggery all the time most annoying!

Generally if its not pulling then I wouldn't worry about a wheel alignment - however sometimes the wheels can be straight but and still be eatting your tyres. I say if your taking your car there to be worked on get everything done at once. Saved you having to take it back again. But if the wheels are pulling you could always do some DIY wheel aligning :(

If the wheels are shaking, then they need balancing, regardless of how many weights may or may not be attached to the rims (you generally have no idea how they behaved on the previous car).

If the car handles funny, steers vaguely, pulls to one side, then an alignment is called for.

Simple.

Personally, I steer clear of fitting S/H tyres. They are generally set into rotating in a particular direction, and if you change that, then they start misbehaving and giving strange performance and handling.

Went for a wheel balance today, performance wise, its a LOT better, no more strange feel when turning but still a bit of thud noise with one wheel. I think (and the guy at the tyre shop) that it might be the front right rim that is slightly out of shape.

So I guess i'm gonna have to take it to a mag shop and see if thats repairable or not. Its drivable but I'm just overly fussy about my car.

anyone can recommend a well priced mag shop that can help me out with the problem?

thanx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
    • Can't see that being a thing.
×
×
  • Create New...