Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

simple answer F*CKIN HARD

i dont agree with engine out would make it sh*t loads easier though just seems like an AWFUL lot of work to take out the engine just for oil filter change

it is possible to change without removing engine but it is a absolute bitch!!! i changed mine with the engine in BUT i did have the plenum off at the time and it was still a mongrel

i recommend get a oil filter relocation kit ASAP

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98167-oil-pump/#findComment-1783451
Share on other sites

simple answer  F*CKIN HARD

i dont agree with engine out    would make it sh*t loads easier though  just seems like an AWFUL lot of work to take out the engine  just for oil filter change

it is possible to change without removing engine  but it is a absolute bitch!!!  i changed mine  with the engine in  BUT  i did have the plenum off at the time  and it was still a mongrel

i recommend get a oil filter relocation kit ASAP

RellikZephyr

are you kidding mate? changing the oil filter is not hard at all. you read wrong mate, wrxhoon was talking about the oil pump

you seriously think you have to remove the plenum, or engine to change the oil filter?? hehehe

yes there are easier cars out there, but it's not a plenum off or engine out job by any means. god damn that's funny.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98167-oil-pump/#findComment-1783496
Share on other sites

are you kidding mate? changing the oil filter is not hard at all. you read wrong mate, wrxhoon was talking about the oil pump

you seriously think you have to remove the plenum, or engine to change the oil filter?? hehehe

yes there are easier cars out there, but it's not a plenum off or engine out job by any means. god damn that's funny.

You tell him Richard , they are not that bad to work on , i dont even spill the oil when i change the oil filter ( with engine in place i may add) .

The oil pump is doable on the car as well but by the time you stuff around and take the xmember off , its just as easy to pull the donk out . Then again why would you want to change the oil pump ? If its because it failed what makes you think the donk is still ok ? In my view a failed oil pump means engine out and full rebuild job .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98167-oil-pump/#findComment-1784115
Share on other sites

ahh Oil PUMP sorry my bad

but you think changing oil filter is easy??

i took my plenum off for different reason and changed oil filter while i was there

no i dont think filter is a engine out or plenum off job thats why i thought it was strange and a bit extreme

well i feel like a bit of a idiot now :)

ok im gonna go hide for like a week and not post and hope you all forget what i said

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98167-oil-pump/#findComment-1786210
Share on other sites

I love customer diagnosed complaints. Guy rings me last week and says...'My diff filler plug is missing, can I bring it in to have it replaced?' I tell him sure thing. He get's in, driving a barina. Tells me that the diff in the back has it's filler plug missing. I assure him that they don't have a diff in the back coz it's a front wheel drive. He proceeds to crouch down and point at the lump in the floor pan with a threaded hole in the base (jacking point).

When you have a problem, ask what it could be and explain the symptoms. It is easier to get the correct response that way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98167-oil-pump/#findComment-1791608
Share on other sites

I love customer diagnosed complaints. Guy rings me last week and says...'My diff filler plug is missing, can I bring it in to have it replaced?' I tell him sure thing. He get's in, driving a barina. Tells me that the diff in the back has it's filler plug missing. I assure him that they don't have a diff in the back coz it's a front wheel drive. He proceeds to crouch down and point at the lump in the floor pan with a threaded hole in the base (jacking point).

When you have a problem, ask what it could be and explain the symptoms. It is easier to get the correct response that way.

No offence mate, sometimes a salesman or a mechanic, WITHOUT looking at the problem, think they have a fair idea about whats wrong. In which in this case I was confidently told that it could be the oil pump. And hence, I have posted what could be the problem and so far I have recieve excellent feedback to question.

There is your customer diagnosis.

More over I wanted to direct the question in a way so that the community can visualise the problem without having to ask more questions about where the problem lies. Some may call it logical progression.

BTW. thats pretty funny story about the barina.

-Arbess

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98167-oil-pump/#findComment-1793077
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...