What Should I Do To My Gtr

[RellikZephyr]

just wondering what people would recommend i do to my GTR before hitting the track (to keep it alive)

i have a Oil Catch Can and will be putting a sump baffle kit and oil cooler on

have just changed gearbox over (stoopid syncros) and turbos (cause of shaft play, but still stockers) have an EBC and will run no more than 1.0 Bar

i have a twin plate clutch and triple core radiator

other than Pads, Oil and Oil Filter what do you recommend i do?

keep in mind it is a daily driver 90% of the time and only really a weekend warrior

Thanks

RellikZephyr

EDIT: Oh yes and i will be getting a HICAS locker kit too

Edited December 13, 2005 by RellikZephyr

[Beer Baron]

that's all you need. just make sure you have fresh oil in it and most importantly bleed the brakes properly (flush plenty of fluid through) and use good fluid.

[RellikZephyr]

my plan was to change oil prob every 2nd track depending on how much driving ive done between track days if monthly then prob every track day

should i do this with the brake fluid as well??

RellikZephyr

[Beer Baron]

if you are trying hard you will probably need to do brake fluid before each track day. once it boils you will loose pedal feel and in my exerpience it doesn't come back untill you bleed again. i would use around 1 and a half litres for the initial flush and bleed and then providing you don't completely boil it on the first trackday use about 1 litre the next time. try and stick to the same fluid or else you are back to square 1 (needing to flush out all the old fluid). nothing worse than loosing pedal due to cooked fluid halfway through a track day then having to sit the rest out, or try and bleed it there, or put around with no brakes

[Beer Baron]

oh i forgot, doing the oil every second track day should be fine providing you are using really good oil. i like the motul chrono 300V. it's very nice oil.

[djr81]

if you are trying hard you will probably need to do brake fluid before each track day. once it boils you will loose pedal feel and in my exerpience it doesn't come back untill you bleed again. i would use around 1 and a half litres for the initial flush and bleed and then providing you don't completely boil it on the first trackday use about 1 litre the next time. try and stick to the same fluid or else you are back to square 1 (needing to flush out all the old fluid). nothing worse than loosing pedal due to cooked fluid halfway through a track day then having to sit the rest out, or try and bleed it there, or put around with no brakes

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I use MOTUL RBF 600 which is a dot 4 fluid with a high (600 degree) boiling point. It costs about $25 for 500ml which is enough for a change. Your pads will give up before the fluid will. Have agood think about your pads too. The rears will be fine, but the fronts will hate you for what you are doing.

Just make sure you let everything cool down before you go out again....

Oh, yeah - you will make a right mess of your tyres on the track too.

[hrd-hr30]

I reckon you've got it about right. Anything you're willing to do to help the oil system, do it. I'll be fitting an oil cooler before I do any multi-lap supersprints next year.

I don't know why everyone says to remove the HICAS, mine is fine on the track with HICAS connected. The only arguments I've heard against it are that it makes the car unpredictable, which is utter rubbish. And that it causes understeer, which in my experience is also BS. The reasons a serious race car would do away with it are:

1) weight saving

2) reduced complexity (one thing less to go wrong)

3) its an unnecesary system, and everything unnecesary goes in a race car (where rules allow).

for a street car with the odd track day, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm not saying it doesn't have any benefits to handling, but there are certainly other areas in the suspension that will make huge improvements to lap times before worrying about the HICAS.

[RellikZephyr]

Thanks for all the replies people

next question what clubs are out there in Melbourne

and are any of them CAMS affiliated

ive seen that team wang one i like the slogan

also i know NDSOC is CAMS affiliated

so anyone know anyone i should get in touch with?

Thanks

RellikZephyr

[Beer Baron]

SAU VIC. it's cams affiliated i believe.

DJR81. mate i don't believe that 500ml is enough to do a full flush on a 32 GTR. that is just scraping the surface. I have cooked fluid plenty of times before the pads gave in, though a couple of times they tend to give in together (pads starts to go, need more/longer braking, heat goes up, fluid boils). I also use RB600 and can still cook it before cooking a moderate track pad (700degree pad). also RBF600 is a 312 degree C fluid.

how many laps are you doing in one session? and how many sessions to a day?

[ferni]

haha Team wang isn't our actual club.

SAU VIC is our club and its CAMS affiliated and a bunch of us track our skylines (plus the odd evo/tx5 )

come join SAU VIC and come to track days with us

[R31Nismoid]

spot on Ferni.

SAU Vic - Cheapest CAMS affiliated club in Vic

[djr81]

I reckon you've got it about right. Anything you're willing to do to help the oil system, do it. I'll be fitting an oil cooler before I do any multi-lap supersprints next year.

I don't know why everyone says to remove the HICAS, mine is fine on the track with HICAS connected. The only arguments I've heard against it are that it makes the car unpredictable, which is utter rubbish. And that it causes understeer, which in my experience is also BS. The reasons a serious race car would do away with it are:

1) weight saving

2) reduced complexity (one thing less to go wrong)

3) its an unnecesary system, and everything unnecesary goes in a race car (where rules allow).

for a street car with the odd track day, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm not saying it doesn't have any benefits to handling, but there are certainly other areas in the suspension that will make huge improvements to lap times before worrying about the HICAS.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you don't yet have a cooler it pays to keep an eye on the oil temp gauge. Mostly your brakes start fading before the oil gets too hot.

I have had the HICAS connected on the track & also a lock kit installed. Either way the car is driveable. The difference I found was mostly a confidence thing. Having the rear opposite phase steer on turn in freaked me out a little & I did find that with it removed the car felt more predictable. So it is a preference thing. As for understeer, well I found it split into two halves. On the turn in phase the HICAS reduced the understeer, but on corner exit it increased it. Just like it is supposed to. Anyway the Nissan blokes knew a thing or two about car set up - so you can be confident you will have bundles of fun on the track with a stock suspension set up - HICAS & all.

As for licenses - go to the CAMS web site & find yourself the paper work for a level 2S. In conjunction with a club membership this is pretty much all you need. Cost is (from memory) less than $100 a year.

[djr81]

SAU VIC. it's cams affiliated i believe.

DJR81. mate i don't believe that 500ml is enough to do a full flush on a 32 GTR. that is just scraping the surface. I have cooked fluid plenty of times before the pads gave in, though a couple of times they tend to give in together (pads starts to go, need more/longer braking, heat goes up, fluid boils). I also use RB600 and can still cook it before cooking a moderate track pad (700degree pad). also RBF600 is a 312 degree C fluid.

how many laps are you doing in one session? and how many sessions to a day?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I use RBF600 all the time, so I find 500ml enough. Each to there own, another $25 shouldn't kill anyone. Yeah the 600 degrees is in fahrenheit, not celcius, but still better than dot 5 fluids.

We usually are restricted to three laps at a go (Plus warmup lap & cool down) and at the end of the main straight at Wanneroo my brakes are feeling the pain on the last lap. Usually the third flyer is slower than the other two because the brake friction coefficient is heading south. Having said that I only use RB74 pad's at the moment on stock calipers/rotors.

Speedevent series gives us four sets of laps plus a warmup & if you are lucky a discretionary run in the arvo.

[RellikZephyr]

cool

then could someone please tell me where to find the SAU Vic membership form

i did search and could only find QLD one

Thanks

RellikZephyr

[R31Nismoid]

sticky thread in the Vic Section has all the info you need

[hrd-hr30]

I have had the HICAS connected on the track & also a lock kit installed. Either way the car is driveable. The difference I found was mostly a confidence thing. Having the rear opposite phase steer on turn in freaked me out a little & I did find that with it removed the car felt more predictable. So it is a preference thing. As for understeer, well I found it split into two halves. On the turn in phase the HICAS reduced the understeer, but on corner exit it increased it. Just like it is supposed to.

are you saying that HICAS steers opposite to the front initally and then with it? where did you get that explanation of the HICAS system? any more details like how long it holds the counter phase steering before changing, or under what conditions it does this, or is it simply all the time?

[Scotsman]

Also hit the full line on your dipstick, then add one litre.

This has kept all us VIC GTR guys going for two years even without sump baffles.

[djr81]

are you saying that HICAS steers opposite to the front initally and then with it? where did you get that explanation of the HICAS system? any more details like how long it holds the counter phase steering before changing, or under what conditions it does this, or is it simply all the time?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Precisely. The explanation came from the original R32 GT-R test drives done by both Wheels & by Car magazine. The description in Wheels is as follows:

"Nissan's sophisticated Super HICAS system works in two distinct steps; initially in reverse phase (with the rear wheels turning through a small arc in the opposite direction to the front) before moving to the parallel phase."

Car was a bitmore effusive:

"The rear wheels counter-steer to help the Skyline turn into the corner, and then steer in the same direction as the fronts, to help stability.... At high speed, though, the maximum movement is approximately 0.3 degrees"

Unfortunately neither nominate a speed at which the system works/stops working. From what I understand it changes phases, ie from counter steer to same phase when you get on the accelerator.

The reason that some people say it makes the car's handling more unpredicatble is that when you turn the car into a corner you need to differentiate between the HICAS working and the back end losing grip & starting to slide. Sometimes that is not so easy. Disabling the HICAS means when you feel the back end getting loose you are running out of grip. Having said that everything it does after turn in, in my humble opinion, is all good.

[ferni]

Here you go dude.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=60590

Come to a meeting as well, there is one next tuesday.

[RellikZephyr]

Thanks Ferni

unfortunately i am going back to queensland on sunday/monday to visit family for chrissy so thanks anyway but i cant

i do remember reading something about a meeting on the sunday (20th) and i was thinking about going to that depending on wether im leaving the sunday or the monday. so i might see you there

RellikZephyr