Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hows it goin boys, i got my exhaust fitted yesterday 3inch turbo back, thats the only mod the cars got. When i drive it in the low revs it shows up around 5 or 6 psi then it goes up slowly till arround 7 or 8 then at pretty much exactly 5000rpm it goes straight to 10psi and stays till redline.

What my question is with a bleedvalve will that enable the car to be boost at 10psi right from the begining say 2500 (or whenever boost kicks in on the rb25's)

i just wanna make sure it will b4 i buy one, becoz a mate of mine reckons if its boosting to 10 psi now theres no point? Thanks.

yea your m8s correct.. u'll probably gain a more constant 10psi thru the rev range .. but u could invest ina r32 rb20 turbo actuator instead...... either way its naturally gaining boost as u remove restriction with the exhaust.

leave it for now .. save for a front mount.. then see where your boost sits when u fit that..

Matt

reading through my original post i think it may be unclear exactly what im asking, what id like to know if anyone can help me is will a bleed valve set to 10psi mean that the car will go stright to 10 psi as soon as it hits boost, as opposed to what happens now..which is a gradual climb (7psi up until around 5000rpm) to 10 psi high in the rev range? Thanks guys.

there is a thread in here on how to get high boost setting through out the rev rang, pls search

go here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42895

Edited by race_snooze

just ground the solenoid so its constantly on. that bypasses the 2 stage boost that the ecu has. dunno if it will burn out the solenoid cause its always on. or you could just purchase one of those nifty mech boost controlers on the forum for $35ish and just set it to 10.

there is a thread in here on how to get high boost setting through out the rev rang, pls search

go here  http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=42895

Yea forget the bleed valve and just use the hiogh boost mod with the standard actuator. $2 for the wire,. $3 for the switch. Dash mount and switch it to 10PSI at the flick of the switch.

You said RB25 so I'll assume you have an R33.

Ground the solenoid and you'll get the instant 10psi as mentioned above. Also, when I picked my car up after a ton of work to it they left the bleed valve closed.

What this resulted in was a gradual increase in boost as the revs raised until it stopped at about 14psi. Opening the bleed valve up I was able to attain a much faster boost increase up to 15psi so as far as my personal experience goes, if after the solenoid mod your boost still rises slowly, try a bleed valve. They're cheap as chips anyway and you'll want one eventually.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...