Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Vspecman

I know there are some experts out there.

So who can help with this-

My V spec Gtr is one of the last 33's built. It has the vin number as BCNR33 then 43389.

Various engine hoses and the spare tyre have the date of manufacture at 3.98.

Does anyone have info from Nissan or another source to determine when it was made?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/985-how-old-is-my-gtr/
Share on other sites

The series 3 continued to be built into the early months of 98 so it could still be built in 98. I'm not sure why you are checking up on it but if its because you think its not a genuine late model one then you can also check for all the other things that are on the series 3 such as HID's front lip, red stitching on the seats etc etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/985-how-old-is-my-gtr/#findComment-21137
Share on other sites

Guest Vspecman

thanks tonyxc and 400hp.

I am hoping there would be some Nissan production information showing when certain vehicles were produced. I am amazed that Nissan does not readily provide such information.

Cars like Mercedes Benz and Porsche have a long Vin number which is easily decoded to tell you production date, which part of the world the car was built for, LH or RH drive etc which is essential info when buying an import.

The last of the 33 V spec cars were produced after production of the 34 GTR cars had commenced.

Tomorrow I am picking up a R34 V spec from a workshop where it has just had N1 turbos, power FC etc installed and taking it for run on a 4wd dyno.

Any specific info on the production dates would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/985-how-old-is-my-gtr/#findComment-21170
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...