Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R34 finally arrived recently and have been loving the drive, very happy with it. However, lately some warning lights have been appearing (TCSoff, SLIP, engine malf). A quick look in my manmual tells me that the traction control has switched to fail safe mode, but the symptoms and the timing seriously make me think otherwise.

It most regularly happens on the highway, sitting on the pretty much the same speed and revs for around 10 mins (110km/hr, 2700 revs). The engine malfunction light will come up and a second later the traction control lights come up. When this happens the engine power seems to drop, the tone changes from a smooth running engine to a kind of constant bubbly spluttery sound (make an engine sound, then flick your tongue in your mouth, kinda like that). Generally I can bring the tone back to normal by giving the accelerator a bit and getting it to boost again.

Anyone else had this problem before, or have an idea?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98629-need-help/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Started sifting thru my brakes to decide which ones I will run on Clem   Made me think I should just put them all on Silver...for when brake fade just isn't an option   Should be able to bump rotor up from 343x32 to 348x36 off Supra. Not sure if the Supra annulus is right for the Alcons or APs but trying g to find a used Supra\M4 rotor to test fit The Alcons seem to gain 1-2mm clearance which all helps  
    • So car is getting a few mods to the cage and some jacking points welded in Meantime Ol Silver gets a new gearbox and shiny clutch.  Old Box is being set aside for Clem  
    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
×
×
  • Create New...