Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-183229
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rob77

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :D

However check out the mags carbon fibre bonnet, interior, body work... that thing has GTR body (by body i don't mean spoilers, i mean flares and guards) kit.. anoyone know where you can get a cheap GTR flare/guard kit? would be worth a bit? spoke to Jash about it and seemed quite expensive :-(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-184619
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rob77

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :D

Dude, the car has a 10k turbo kit on it - think you might have trouble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-185062
Share on other sites

that guy has spent WELL over $44,000 on the car. i dont think you can make outrageous claims like that.

maybe youd have 300kw at the wheels but youd be rollin around in 15" wheels, stock bodykitted piece of crap. that car's panel work would be very expensive, wheels, suspension etc etc for under $44,000 inc the initial price of the car? your dreaming

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-187565
Share on other sites

The car has had a very hard life too.

I mean denzo has been driving it!

$45k is expensive, for a time bomb.

I can get hold of a few better cars in japan that have had just as hard a life for less. More power, more $$ worth of parts and much better looking.

Check my avitar -- landed and complied (hurry you only have days left) it would be under $30k. 800PS at the tyres, OS giken diff, gear box, Ogura 4plater , mega buck RB26 blah blah blah...

An R33 GTST is always an R33 GTST, thats what is says on the comp. plate. And that is all the market cares about.

If you modify a car thinking you can make a profit on its sale then you are insane. Just ask Ford or Holden (they don't sell enough to cover costs).

If you expect to recover even 1/2 of what you spent you are either ignorant or a used car salesperson.

That said it's a nice car. Good luck to them trying to sell it for $45k they will need it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-199432
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
    • This is why you flex fuel it...
    • That is what I took from it too. Needed to go AWD S14 imo.
×
×
  • Create New...